Beginner’s Guide to CNC Router Bits

a selection of various cnc router bits in a tray

Besides your CNC machine itself, the next most important part of machining is the router bit.

Different bits make different cuts and have different jobs, and if you’re new to machining, navigating bits can be confusing. From the bare-bones essential bits for machining to the more specialized bits that you’ll use rarely, there’s a lot of information around bits that can confuse even the most seasoned machinists.

To clear things up, we’ve made what we hope is a handy guide to walk you through everything you need to know about bits while you’re getting started as a machinist.

While we don’t claim this article is comprehensive, we do think that when you’re done reading, you’ll be a lot more knowledgeable about bits than when you started.

Essential bits

These are the bits to get started with. They will get the most use. As a result, they should be the first ones that you upgrade to better bits.

End mill

closeup of cnc router end mill with features pointed out

End mills are side-cutting tools, meaning they’re meant to cut flat bottoms.

They can cut a square slot or profile with a square corner, and you can also use them for contouring and reaming.

You’ll be able to distinguish an end mill by the flat bottom on the end of the bit.

V-bit

closeup of whiteside v router bit
V-bit from Whiteside

V-bits are – you guessed it – shaped like a “V.” Producing a V-shaped cut, these bits are great for engraving, lettering, detailed designs, and signs.

You’ll typically use V-bits to add your special style or artistic design to projects.

V-bits come in all different sizes and angles. The smaller the angle, the more narrow the cut.

Ball nose end mill

closeup of ball nose end mill with features pointed out

A ball nose bit is basically the same thing as an end mill, except the end is a ball. This will give you a rounded contour around the edges of your cut.

You may also occasionally use a ball nose bit in lettering, but they are not as common as v-bits.

V-bits will allow you to create sharp-cornered letters, while ball nose bits will give you softer, rounded letters.

Surfacing bit

closeup of cnc surfacing bit

Surfacing bits are basically just big end mills.

You’ll use a surfacing bit to remove large amounts of material at once, like if you’re smoothing out your spoil board.

You can also use a surfacing bit to condition a bad piece of wood or otherwise smooth out the surface of the wood if it isn’t perfectly straight. This is very similar to planing a piece of wood.

Specialty bits

These specialty bits may not be necessary for CNC machining, but they’re nice to have handy.

Definitely don’t purchase any of these bits until you have the four essential ones above. But, once you have some experience under your belt, you can try a couple of these out to get more creative with your projects.

Carving bit

a cnc router with a carving bit installed

Carving bits are for any of you that want to make 2.5D or 3D projects. They allow you to make a lot of fine detail.

Some of the most amazing projects will use these bits. It will definitely be best to get some practice with not only your machine but also the software you are using as well before jumping into working with these bits.

You don’t want to be busting bits while you are still learning. Because of this, it is a good idea to start out with some cheaper practice bits while learning how to carve with your CNC.

T slot cutters

T Slot cutters are pretty simple: they’re made for cutting out slots on the back of a sign so you can hang it on a wall.

Signs of all sorts are common projects for anyone operating a CNC router. If you find yourself making plenty of signs, wall art or similar wall hangings then this bit will be an essential add to your tool box.

Bowl cutters

closeup of bowl cutter bit

Imagine if a ball nose bit and a surfacing bit had a baby – that’s what bowl cutters are for. They will cut the same rounded shape as a ball nose. However, the bottom is wider and flatter than a ball nose because this bit is meant to remove a lot of material, like a surfacing bit.

These cutters are excellent for removing larger amounts of material or “hogging” out the material.

Engraving bit

Engraving bits are most often used to etch designs into glass, wood, acrylic, or metal.

The interesting thing about an engraving bit is that it’s a “drag” bit. This means the spindle isn’t actually turned on while the bit is in use. Instead, the bit just drags across the surface to engrave.

Cutting flutes

The spiral-shaped cutting edges on the sides of an end mill are called flutes. Generally, there are 2 flutes on CNC router bits, though there can be more. The more flutes there are, the better the finish you’ll get.

One misconception is that the more flutes you have, the faster you can feed material. Yes, extra flutes mean that you remove more material per spin, but it’s common for people to increase the speed too much and overload the tool.

In reality, you should slow things down when you have more flutes to avoid any overloading. So, while you’ll cut more material per spin with 5 flutes, the lower spin rate may mean that using fewer flutes is more efficient since you can cut faster with 2 flutes than you can with 5.

If you’re relatively new to machining, 2 flutes should be enough.

Types of flutes

Some of the stuff in this section is going to get pretty technical. While we’ll try our best to explain how the different flutes cut material, we also recommend watching a tutorial video for any bit where you have confusion. 

Sometimes, it’s just easier to see a bit in action than it is to explain how the bit works.

Straight

closeup of straight flute router bit

Straight flutes give you an interrupted cut that sheers away material for the entire length of the bit. Straight bits really slap the wood and cause a great deal of vibration and chatter. These bits require a lot of force and should generally be avoided unless you need them for a specific purpose.

Bowl cutters and surfacing bits are examples of straight flutes.

Upcut (up-spiral, upbit)

closeup of upcut router bit with pros and cons listed

Upcut bits pull the chips up to remove them – the chips are “riding” up the flute. They pull the chips up towards the router or spindle.

Because the upcut is removing material out the top of the surface, the rough edge of the material you’re cutting is on top. Upcut bits have flat bottoms, which means they cut a smoother surface on the bottom.

These bits are great for drilling and plunging. They are not great for working with plywood because they will create a poor edge on the top of the wood.

Downcut (down-spiral, downbit)

closeup of whiteside downcut router bit
Downcut bit from Whiteside

Downcut bits are the reverse of the upcut bit. The material you’re removing is “pushed” downward away from the router or spindle. The rough edge, then, will be at the bottom of your material. The top edge of your material will be very clean when using a downcut bit.

Downcut bits are good for finish passes. However, you shouldn’t use downcuts for deep slots, drills or plunges. That’s because the downcut has no way of ejecting chips and debris, so it will stay stuck in the slot, or at least be very difficult to clean out.

While the downcut has a V-shaped bottom to leave room for the chips, the chips are not removed as well as a upcut bit and this can lead to heat buildup which can dull or ruin your bit.

Compression bit

closeup of yonico compression cnc router bit
Compression bit from Yonico

Compression bits are a combination of Upcut and Downcut bits. A compression bit will have an upcut for the bottom quarter or third of the bit, while the rest of the bit will be downcut. When run at full depth, the compression bit will leave clean edges on both sides of your workpiece.         

They can’t run as fast as upcut bits, but they are a nice compromise between finish edge quality and speed. They are a solid choice for working with veneered wood or plywood.

Router bit materials

When we’re talking about router bit materials, we’re really only talking about the cutting edge, as that is the most important aspect of a bit. 

carbide faced cutters vs high speed steel cutters

Carbide steel is a metal that is made with tungsten and a whole lot of carbon. The unique combination of materials, combined with how the metal is made gives this material a high tensile strength and high heat tolerance. Carbide steel also has high abrasion resistance.

In other words, carbide steel is good stuff. Naturally, it’s more expensive, but it’ll last 20-50x longer than a normal steel bit.

Compared to carbide steel, High Speed Steel bits are lower on the scale of tensile strength, heat tolerance, abrasion resistance, and price.

High speed steel is a little springy and generally has a worse finish than carbide steel. It also breaks down faster. Of course, then, high speed steel bits are cheaper.

There is nothing wrong with high speed steel bits but keep in mind that they will likely need to be changed or sharpened more often.

Router bit coatings

Coatings are chemical or metal finishes that have been bonded to the bit. Not all bits come with coatings, though it’s not at all uncommon to see coated bits.

One thing we should note is that coatings do not add strength to your bit. This is a common misconception. Coatings are intended to be heat barriers and are only a few atoms thick. To be honest, coatings are not always necessary, especially for hobbyists.

Because coatings often add expense to the bits and they aren’t needed for most users, we do not recommend them. However, if you think they are right for your application then by all means experiment and see what happens. For beginners though, we say skip them.

Black oxide bits are common and will protect against corrosion and friction. They are very similar to normal high speed steel (HSS) bits and work well for most materials.

Cobalt bits are made for greater heat resistance which works well when dealing with harder materials such as steel. These are overkill for working with soft materials such as wood and aluminum.

Tungsten carbide bits, which are generally just referred to as carbide bits, are extremely hard and heat resistant. Their hardness also makes them brittle, so you will want to use extra care when working with these bits, so they don’t chip. They can also be quite expensive.

Titanium bits are actually just high-speed steel bits that are coated with titanium nitride. This coating helps them to wear slower. This works well for heavy-duty, high-volume work. Once big downfall of titanium bits is that because they are coated and not solid titanium, they can’t be sharpened once they go dull.

All in all, we don’t really think it’s worth the additional cost for coatings. The benefits are rather minimal, especially if you’re just doing CNC as a hobby.

Router bit costs

To be honest, if you’re new to CNC, we recommend getting cheaper bits. Yes, they’ll dull faster, make lower-quality cuts, and don’t last long, but they make for good practice.

While you’re still getting a feel for machining, it’s not a bad idea to start off with cheaper bits. When you run them into your steel clamp and bust them into a million pieces, you won’t be nearly as disappointed.

Unless you forgot to wear your safety glasses. Always wear your safety glasses!

As you get better at machining, there will come a time where you should treat yourself to more expensive bits. They cut so much cleaner, and their high price is offset by the fact that they last a long time.

When you move on to the pricier bits, build up your arsenal by first starting with the essential bits we talked about earlier.

The first premium bits to get are:

  • End mills
  • V-bits
  • Ball nose end mill
  • Surfacing bit

Which router bits do you need to start with?

The essential CNC router bits

Flat Bottom End Mills:

  • ¼”
  • 1/8”
  • 1/16”

The ¼” inch bit gets used the most, followed by the 1/8” and then the 1/16”

V Groove Cutters:

  • 90 Degree
  • 60 Degree
  • 30 Degree

You’ll find other V groove bits besides these 3, but they aren’t necessary. Perhaps you’ll eventually want a 120 degree bit for larger lettering, but that’ll come down the road.

Remember the larger your V-bit angle is, the wider your lettering will be.

comparison chart that list router bit cutting angles

Ball Nose Bits

These bits are used for contouring and finer details such as when you are carving with your CNC.

Surfacing Bit

This bit is for flattening or “surfacing” your material. They work similar to a planer but they make the part flat in multiple passes.

They are also used for surfacing your spoilboard.

CNC router bits to buy later

These next few bits are nice to have but are nonessential. Hold off on purchasing these bits until you have a full set of the bits above.

Carving Bit

You have to be pretty advanced to get into carving. Carving projects have long run times, and you’ll likely need to learn a specialty program. Definitely hold off on carving until you’re ready.

Drag Bit

cnc router diamond drag bit

Unless you’re engraving metal or glass, you can hold off on buying a drag bit. They can be used to make some cool CNC projects but they only have a single use.

T Slot Cutter

These are handy if you’re making signs that you want to hang but are not a necessity.

Bowl Cutter

You won’t need this bit unless you’re contouring and removing a lot of material at once.

Practice bits and good bits

Surely you picked up on the concept, but we want to hammer home the importance of having practice bits, and sound, solid, expensive bits.

If you’re new or if you’re experimenting around, you should stick to cheap steel bits. This gives you margin for error and won’t leave you with much out of pocket when they break.

Once you’ve upgraded your skills and have a good handle on your machine, go ahead and upgrade your bits. But even if you’re confident in yourself, it never hurts to have some spare practice bits laying around.

Frequently asked questions

I'm new to routing, what bits are the most important?

If you skipped down to the bottom of this article and wound up here, go back up to the top and take a look at the first section. There, we went over the most essential bits in machining and explained what each essential bit is for. The most important bits to own are:

  • End Mills
  • V-bits
  • Ball Nose bits
  • Surfacing bit

Do I need coating bits for CNC routing?

Honestly, we don’t think coated bits are necessary. The coating layer is usually super thin, so you don’t get much out of the coating in the first place. And, coatings can make the bit’s cut less smooth.

To top things off, you can pay a heck of a lot of money for a coated bit, yet you likely won’t notice a difference in the cut.

40+ Best CNC Projects for Beginners

cnc router engraving a project in a vise

If you’re relatively new to CNC, coming up with project ideas may be difficult.

You’ve probably spent a decent chunk of change on a new 3018 CNC or maybe something bigger and more fun, not to mention all the tooling and other materials. Now it’s finally time to make something.

While searching for good starter projects, you will find some plans that are out of your league, too big for an at-home machine. On the flip side, some are just too boring.

We know the struggle of finding worthwhile projects for relative CNC beginners. Because we’ve been in your shoes, we want to make life easier to encourage everyone with a CNC – regardless of skill level – to keep at it.

So, here we’ve gathered a list of CNC projects that make great starter projects for anyone new to machining. We’ve sorted them from what we think are the easiest projects to the hardest ones. There’s sure to be something you like on this list.

Engrave wooden spoons or utensils

multiple wooden spoons lined up on a wood background

You don’t even have to make the spoon or utensil for this project. Head to the dollar store to pick up some cheap kitchen utensils and carve away.

These make for an excellent gift if you have any chefs in your life. Even if your mom doesn’t cook, you know she would love it and she is worth it!

Or, you can make several of them and hang them around your kitchen as a unique art piece.

This is a super cheap project option and it lets you practice your carving skills.

Router bit organizer

a router bit organizer with multiple router bits in it

We really like this project because it’s both useful, and a good way to practice drilling holes.

Even as a beginning machinist, you probably have several router bits. It’s easy to get excited and buy a bunch when you first get your machine.

And while some come with a small plastic case, why not drill yourself an authentic bit organizer?

It’s practical, looks cool in your garage or tool shed, and, again, it’s good practice. Leftover wood scraps make for good material for this project and as you experiment with different woods to machine with your CNC, you can compare them by repeating a simple project such as this.

Key holder

a black key holder with one set of keys on it

We also like key holder projects because they’re practical and good practice, just like the router bit organizer.

You can make the holder into the shape of a house, or you can customize the board by putting a last name right across it. The possibilities are endless here, actually.

Wooden jewelry

Wooden jewelry can make for an awesome gift for a lady in your life, and you can even sell them if you get good at it.

One popular item we’ve seen are necklaces. You first carve something like a heart, and then at the top, you drill a hole where you string the chain or lace through. You can also try making rings.

Actually, this is not necessarily limited to women. You can make some cool wooden bracelets for men if you’d like.

Pro tip: use small leftover scrap bits of some of the more exotic woods to use in larger projects.

Keepsake boxes

a keepsake box with assorted jewelry inside

Keepsake boxes are super simple projects that you can knock out in no time. It’s as simple as hollowing out some wood, attaching a hinge mechanism, and creating a lid.

You can carve some custom designs on the outside of the box or carve a special message on the inside of the lid.

Really, once you have the box, the rest is up to your imagination. A plain box is boring but putting a small, special detail can turn it into a prized possession for someone.

Signs

wooden sign that says love

Signs really allow you to get creative with your CNC machine.

Typical signs will be done on a wooden board and then hung from a wall or drilled in. Signs can be seasonal, include a sports team logo, a name, or just about anything you’d like to put on there.

Perhaps our favorite thing about signs is that you can buy blanks online.

If you’re comfortable enough to make the baseboard, then go for it. But if you’re new to CNC and you want to take a shot on an even, clean, solid wood board, then go online and find a blank.

Practicing one technique at a time can help you perfect it when you have less variables to worry about.

The possibilities for signs are seemingly endless. The only thing that will limit you is your imagination and possibly the size of your machine, depending on how big you want the sign.

The types of signs you can make include, but are not limited to:

  • Home Décor signs
  • Welcome Sign
  • Bar Sign/Man Cave Sign
  • House Number Sign
  • Address Plaque

Bookmarks

Bookmarks are an excellent first project. You can get a thin piece of wood and then carve it up with unique messages, a name, or even individual book titles. Rather than carving, you can also choose to cut right through the wood and make 3D designs.

Custom/unique business cards

Similar to a bookmark, you can make business cards.

This will also require carving or cutting through a relatively thin piece of wood. We love this idea because whoever you give this business card to is 100% going to remember it. Most business cards wind up lost or in the trash, but a wooden one will stand out.

Use them to get your name out there if you want to start selling things you make with your CNC.

Desk nameplate

Sticking with the business theme here, you can make a cool desk nameplate with your machine. It’s always nice when you can bring a little character and personality to your desk or office. You spend enough time there, so you may as well trick it out and make it your own.

Christmas ornaments

christmas ornaments on a wooden background

You’re probably not going to make these year-round, but they make for a really great gift. Plus, it’s super easy to find Christmas ornament blanks on the internet, so you don’t have to worry about cutting the right shape and thickness on your own if you don’t want to.

You can put someone’s name in it, carve a snowman, Santa, a reindeer, or really whatever you’d like.

As a bonus, if you are looking to make a project to sell with your CNC, these are gold around the holidays.

Drink coasters

wooden drink coasters with a circular engraving

Drink coasters will be relatively similar to Christmas ornaments in both size and shape. And, similarly, you can find blanks of these as well.

We really like making coasters because they serve a purpose and work as an art piece. Have a little fun with it and make something a little strange and see how long until your significant other notices!

Please note that you may want to glue little rubber washers, or some felt on the bottom of your coasters so they don’t scratch up any surfaces if you think this will be a problem.

Games, game boards and game pieces

a wooden cribbage board with a deck of cards

Anything game related is going to make for a great project. Most of these are going to be relatively easy, plus you’ll get some use out of them. Whether you make these for yourself or as a gift, they’ll be super useful and serve as a great conversation starter.

As far as game boards go, there a few super easy and popular options that include:

  • Cribbage boards
  • Chess/checkers boards

As for games themselves, you can try making:

  • Wooden dominos
  • Large wooden dice (for Yahtzee)
  • Oversized Scrabble tiles for (these also work as a sign or art piece)

Or, you can make individual game pieces for games such as:

  • Catan
  • Monopoly tokens

If you aren’t sure which one is best, then start with a cribbage board. It makes for great hole drilling practice for anyone just starting out.

Clocks

a wooden wall clock

There are a couple of different routes you can go for clocks based on your skill level. If you’re super crafty and up for a challenge, try making your own wooden gears. This will take time and patience (and a lot of skill), but plenty of YouTube videos are out there to help you.

However, if you’re reading this, then chances are you’re new to CNC. An easier option would be to just make the clock face and buy a separate arm and battery mechanism.

If you do decide to buy a clock mechanism then a clock is as simple as cutting a round shape and drilling a hole for the clock to pop through. If you want it even easier, there are more blanks available to you can concentrate on the design.

This option still allows for a lot of creativity and work if you want it to. Acrylic can make for a cool clock too as either an all acrylic clock or an acrylic overlay.

Other easier projects

While the list above isn’t comprehensive, it’s a really good starting list for easy projects. But, if none of those flips your switch you can try making:

  • Wall maps – more advanced but super cool
  • Letter blocks – good carving practice
  • Toy train tracks – simple shapes allow you to concentrate on quality cuts
  • Keychains – great sellers that can be made super cheap with blanks
  • Engraved carpenter pencils – fun gifts for Father’s Day
letter blocks, carpenter pencil, train track and a key chain

More difficult projects

Maybe you’ve looked at the items above and thought they were too easy, or you’ve already made several of them in the past. If you’re still fairly new to CNC but looking for a challenge, there are still plenty of projects that you can try out.

Glass etchings

This may sound really fancy but it really isn’t.

The only reason it isn’t ranked with our super easy projects is that it requires an extra bit. They cost a few bucks, but a diamond drag bit can make some super unique projects.

What is great about this project is that pictures frames can be purchased at just about any dollar store to work with. And once you have your technique down, you can look for cool pictures at your local thrift store to make something a little more extravagant.

Planters

Take a look on Pinterest or YouTube, and you can find some pretty unique planters.

You can carve up the outside of the planter with a neat design. We recently saw a cool one with Egyptian-like hieroglyphics and some desert plants in planter.

Custom planters are great when paired with some succulents. They are always very popular.

Topographical map

a wooden map with blue pushpins in some locations

In general, maps are always cool art pieces for your home’s walls, but a topographical map takes that to the next level.

Carving these with a CNC router is tricky, but the payoff is well worth it. Topo maps are sweet. You’ll likely need multiple cutters and a solid software design for a good topographical map. Many people will find that this is their ultimate goal when working with their CNC.

Per usual, check YouTube for tutorials.

Child growth chart

Child growth charts are an excellent childhood memento that every kid will cherish when they get older. Unfortunately, so many people chart their kid’s growth on a wall in their house, meaning the chart goes away once you move.

What makes this a little more advanced is that not everyone will have a large enough machine to make one that will allow you to measure a kid through the years.

Cutting boards

a cutting board with a gift tag

Making a cutting board from scratch is a standard woodworking project.

For anyone working with a CNC, you can buy a cutting board and engrave it to your liking. If you can come up with the right design, cutting boards can be big money makers and when it comes to gifts, personalization can bring a big smile to someone’s face.

Puzzles

It should go without saying that the more puzzle pieces you try to make, the harder the project will be. We’ve seen puzzles as simple as 3-4 pieces in the shape of an elephant, giraffe, or other animals that then gets given to a young child. You can certainly try to do bigger puzzles with more pieces if you’re up to the task.

For most it is best to stick with a smaller puzzle meant as a toy or decoration for a toddler or younger child.

What can I do with my projects?

Of course, this is all going to be up to you, and it can change on a project-by-project basis. However, you may have noticed that we tried to give you a really wide range of things to make.

Practical projects

In one category, you have things like a key holder, or router bit organizer. These projects are very useful and can be starter projects that you make for yourself.

Gifts

multiple gifts wrapped sitting on a wood background

Another category of things would be gifts. You could make a jewelry box for your wife, girlfriend, or mother. You can make Christmas ornaments for people close to you. Drink coasters can make for an awesome house-warming gift, and your friends will never forget who made them.

Sell your projects

Or, you can turn your hobby into a side hustle. Anything on this list can be sold if you find the right audience. Places such as Craigslist and Facebook’s marketplace are free to list on and have numerous potential buyers in your local area.

Then there are the online marketplaces such as Amazon, eBay, and Etsy. These sites usually charge some kind of listing fee, and the shipping logistics are different from site to site. If you really want to make a small business out of your work, spend some time on Google, YouTube, and online forums, figuring out how to make these sites work for you. There are tips and tricks you can utilize to get your items listed at the top of searches, which then make it more likely your items will sell.

Then you have local craft fairs, flea markets, and art stores. At the markets and fairs, you may have to pay a small fee to become a vendor, but these fees are usually small. This will expose your work locally, and the people who come to these markets are usually in the market to buy if the price is right. They make a great stepping stone for figuring out what sells well in your local market.

And don’t be afraid to approach a local store owner and ask if you can sell your items there. People love to support local entrepreneurs and artists, and you can work out a fee-sharing structure with the shop owner.

From personal items, to gifts, to sales, CNC projects are becoming more and more popular since CNC machines have become more easily available to everyday hobbyists. We can tell you from experience, it just makes you feel good to give a gift that you made by hand or to turn your creations into cash. 

Tips for making your projects easier

Start small. It’s a simple cliché that is 100% correct.

If you go too big too early, things might not work out, and you can wind up burning yourself out and literally burning through cutters and material.

Start with simpler projects and feel the reward of crafting your very own items. Doing several smaller projects not only improves your skills, but it helps you build the confidence to tackle more complicated jobs.

We also recommend using blanks or pre-made products to engrave. For signs, ornaments, or coasters, blanks can be easily and cheaply purchased.

This saves the stress of building your base before carving and creating designs. There’s no shame in using blanks – it can save time, money, and stress. Hey, we all learned how to bike by first using training wheels.

Lastly, we recommend keeping your designs simple. Go for the 2D design first and see if it works out. Try several, simpler projects and if things are going well, then try for the 3D model you really want. Again, starting small builds the necessary skills and confidence you’ll need for bigger and better projects.

50+ CNC Projects That Really Sell

kid with light bulb lit up on head and speech bubble that says CNC ideas

As CNC machines, including routers and laser engravers, become more affordable and practical to work with from home, the marketplace for CNC products is growing too.

Whether it’s Facebook, Etsy, eBay, or even a local flea/crafters market, people love CNC-made products for their personalization and unique designs.

So, if you fancy yourself a good enough machinist to turn some wood (or other machinable materials) into home décor, knick-knacks, kitchenware, or more, we’ve assembled some ideas for you to turn your craft into cash. Heck, even if you’re not looking to sell anything, this list may give you some good ideas for gifts or items to make for yourself.

Who knows, if your products get hot enough or if you find the right niche, you may be able to pay for that next vacation or offset your monthly car payments. Or maybe you will make someone you care about very happy with a personalized, hand-crafted gift.

To make things easier, we have laid out some of the best projects to make that will bring in the bank and even included tips to make them easier to produce and or quicker to sell below. 

Signs

Everyone knows you can make signs with your CNC. 

And for a good reason, people like them and more importantly, people like to buy them.

Unleash your creativity with custom-made CNC wall signs. These signs will generally be done on wood and can hang from a wall or door or be drilled into something stable. 

You can make them seasonal, use sports teams or logos, or carve just about anything you can think of. Just please don’t use your machine for one of those “Live. Laugh. Love.” signs.         

In terms of difficulty, signs are relatively easy to make. Wood blanks of all types can be used when you are just starting out, though we do recommend cutting the body of the sign yourself once you have had a little practice.

The biggest limiting factor will likely be the size of your machine. Nothing wrong with making a small sign though. They are cute.

Signs are perhaps the easiest way to monetize your CNC router, especially for someone just getting started.

Some specific types of signs to think about making are:

Home Decor Signs

wooden sign that says love

A lot of signs for home décor are going to be placed around the kitchen or living room areas. People that want home décor signs want their guests to see them.

Funny or creative slogans work well and if you find yourself in need of inspiration, take a stroll through Hobby Lobby to get the ideas flowing. 

Don’t be afraid to get weird with it either. Something as silly as a meme can make a good saying for your sign. Just make sure it is relatable so you have a larger list of potential customers.

Welcome Signs

Everyone likes a nice welcome sign on their door. Use creative lettering or a bold paint job. Personalized signs that have a specific address are popular. Just remember that personalization is popular but it will take longer to design and make.

Another option is to find local businesses that want an “open” and/or “welcome” sign for their front entrance.

Advertising Signs

wood business sign

Similar to the welcome sign above, find a local business that wants a custom-made sign.

This won’t work at Walmart, but plenty of mom and pop shops would love a custom plaque with their business name on it. Businesses often have bigger budgets than your average Facebook marketplace shopper, so don’t be afraid to mark up your work a little bit.

Man Cave Signs

These signs can include people’s names, or just the words “Man Cave,” or “Welcome to ___’s Man Cave” etc. Carve it on a quality wood and give it a nice finish.

Bonus points for darker finishes such as Dark Walnut.

Address Plaque/House Number Sign

a sign with house numbers

These two are similar enough in nature to signs. If you or someone you know has a big lawn and it’s hard to see their house number from the street, this could be the perfect gift.

Coordinate Signs

Everyone has a special place.

Maybe it’s where a couple first met or where they got married or where they call home. Maybe it’s a three pack of signs to cover each of the above.

Get creative with it and make sure to give your customer some good ideas about what they might want to use for coordinates.

If your customer doesn’t give know what coordinates they need, take the address and plug it in this site to find the coordinates for your sign.

 

Garden Signs

outdoor sign on a fence that reads community garden

When people are passionate about something they often like to show it off. 

You probably know that people love their pets (dog moms, we are looking at you). But did you know that many people love their plants just as much?

You can create signs to label individual plants or create ones that are basically home decor for the outdoors.

“The garden is my happy place” would be a good place to start when thinking about what to make and sell to anyone who loves their garden.

Garden signs tend to be fun and whimsical so keep that in mind when dreaming up your creations.

Trail Signs

This one is a personal favorite because they are so simple and their “rustic” nature means people tend to not notice small imperfections. A great project for anyone just getting started with their CNC.

outdoor navigational trail signs

If you live on a good-sized property – or know someone who does – you can make trail markers to help make navigation easier.

This works very well in well off areas where people buy vacation homes, especially if they have a lot of land. 

Every state has these towns, so hop into the local Facebook group for that area and start offering this custom service. 

As a bonus, this project is meant to have a weathered feel to it, so you likely won’t be spending big dollars on materials. Check out our guide to the best woods for CNC routing to figure out which ones work best for the great outdoors.

This type of sign can also be great to try and market to local campsites and other outdoor businesses.

Toys & Games

Toys and games make excellent gifts, and you may even be able to sell a few of these. Their difficulty will vary, from the easier projects such as a chess or checkers board, to something more difficult such as a guitar.

Cribbage, Chess and Checker Boards

a wooden cribbage board with a deck of cards

Game boards are some of the most popular items for CNC makers. There are countless tutorials for these on the web, and you’ll likely be able to download ready-made software for game boards.

Cribbage boards make a great project for a beginner to practice drilling holes.

Checker pieces can be easy to make but if you are just starting out, it might be better to work on the game board and buy your checkers, chess pieces and cribbage pegs to start.

Once you have your project dialed in, it would be best to make the pieces yourself or to buy them in bulk to keep costs down.

For an additional twist, you can carve names or personal messages onto the board as well. If you get a classy looking wood – like cherry or even mahogany – these game boards can make excellent display pieces as well.

Toy Train Tracks

toy train and tracks laying on the floor

Perhaps the best piece of advice we can offer here is patience. It’s fairly easy and straightforward to carve train tracks, but it can take a while since you’ll need several different track sets in.

We think you’ll love the result, though. So many of us remember playing with these tracks as kids, so you shouldn’t find it too difficult to sell these tracks to a parent or grandparent in need.

Think about selling individual pieces as well as packs of tracks and once you know you have a market for them, making them in batches will be the best way to go.

Guitars

Warning! This isn’t some beginner level project, but it is one that can definitely be profitable once you get it down.

If you really want to pull cash out of your CNC skills, you should look into instruments. Instruments can have high-profit margins if they’re of high quality. In fact, the popular guitar brand Taylor uses CNC machines for their guitars because CNC’s offer precise cuts and are much more efficient than hand-carving.

A good way to get started for beginners is to purchase a guitar body and make the rest of the guitar or buy all the pieces and come up with a killer design before putting it all together.

The design and the paint or finish is what will make or break this type of project.

the back of a guitar near a bunch of cut wood

Puzzles

The puzzles we’re talking about will be relatively simple unless you’re awfully ambitious. However, simpler puzzles are excellent for children. You can make animals and break the puzzle up into only three or four puzzle pieces if you’d like.

Or, you can make name puzzles, which are great decorations for kids’ rooms and serve as educational pieces when the kid is old enough.

Letter Blocks

wooden blocks with letters and numbers on them

Similarly, it’s easy to carve up some letter blocks. Kids will love these, and they are again good learning tools. 

You can find ready to carve blanks to practice on which make getting started easy.

A nice tip here is to combine the blocks to spell names and sell them as décor for a child’s room.

Stencils

Switch to thin metal and you can use those same letters to make stencils for all kinds of craft projects.

Trays

Trays are similar to signs because they are simple, but so many people like them. There are a lot of trays available from other crafters out there so you will really want to work hard to set yours apart from others. 

Things such as personalization or tailoring them to your local market are the types of things that will give you an advantage over other sellers.

Coin and Key Trays

Really just a catch-all tray. The great things is that there is a lot of room for creativity here.

Trays in the shape of your home state or a local landmark such as lake make for good sellers. This one really lets you use your imagination.

Serving trays

serving tray with drink, pastry and fork

Perfect for breakfast in bed or maybe just bringing out some crackers and cheese for your guests. 

These can be hard to make and stand out from other sellers, so personalization helps to get your customers attention.

Serving trays for special events such as weddings are functional and serve as mementos of the event. Anything you can do to target weddings with your projects will help sales and can often be sold at a higher markup

Makeup Trays

Organizing products are hot right now. Cut pockets in a tray to hold all the miscellaneous makeup and hair accessories.

The finish of the wood will make a big difference here. Brighter colors work well here, so go with something like a light oak stain.

Bathtub Trays

Who doesn’t like a nice soak in the tub?

Kids I guess. I never got why they don’t like a bath.

Either way, these trays aren’t for the kids. These are for mom. Cut a pocket or two for a glass of wine or a candle to sit and craft a stand to hold a phone, book or tablet. 

Keep in mind this thing will be around water so it is best to make sure it is painted or sealed to protect it from water damage.

These sell best around Valentine’s day.

Projects For Special Occasions

Christmas Ornaments

christmas ornaments on a wooden background

The possibilities here really are endless. You can carve the shape of a snowflake, Christmas tree, Santa’s hat, or a gingerbread man. Or, if you wanted a traditional, circular ornament, you can carve the middle out into whatever Christmas-related theme you’d like.

Ornaments are relatively simple, and people are going to buy them up over Christmas time.

These are a great project for beginners and another one that has ready made blanks. Grab the blanks for 50 cents or less each, fire up your CNC and sell them for $5 or more. 

That is some serious profit. The only downside is they only sell well leading up to Christmas, though it might be worth trying a Christmas in July promotion to drum up some summer sales.

Christmas Decor

wooden reindeer decoration

Speaking of Christmas, decorations of all kinds tend to sell very well.

Cut out a tree and pop an LED star on top or make a cookie tray for Santa. There is a lot of freedom for creativity here.

The biggest thing to remember is to have the items made ahead of the holiday season. When you have an item that is a hit, you will need them ready to go to keep up with demand.

Wedding Decor

Christmas items in the winter and wedding stuff in the summer. When done right, these can be the bread and butter of your sales. 

Signs, trays and custom centerpieces can be great moneymakers. People spend a ton of money on weddings, why not get a piece of the action.

Look around for inspiration, wedding shows and magazines can give you some of the best ideas. One minute you’re watching Bridezillas and the next you are cutting custom cake toppers to sell to your local bakery. 

Wedding Gifts

The bride and groom get gifts for their wedding party and the wedding guests get gifts for the bride and groom.

Custom and/or personalized projects are the key here. There can be a lot of competition here because there is so much money to be made so pay attention to how you market and advertise your product. It will likely make or break your chances of turning a proft.

Customized Suit and Dress Hangers

These work well for weddings but also for events such as prom or quinceaneras. The name of the event, the date and sometimes a name are the best things to engrave. 

Most won’t be making the hanger itself from scratch, but there are many that are ready to be engraved available online.

Baby Shower Gifts

Just like with weddings, there are a ton of different ideas that you can cook up for a baby shower. 

Signs tend to be one of the best selling gifts for baby showers. 

Another potential market is families of newborn babies. A custom sign with the name, date of birth and weight makes for a lovely gift and parents and grandparents love to purchase them.

Decorative Items

These projects are going to be wide ranging, and will again require you to use your creative side. Most decorative items aren’t going to be particularly difficult to make, yet will look excellent in anyone’s home, store, or office. Some of these things may also have a bit of functionality, which is a bonus selling point.

Keepsake Boxes

a keepsake box with assorted jewelry inside

Keepsake boxes are as simple as hollowing out a piece of wood, attaching some hinges, and creating the lid. From there, you can custom-carve things onto the outside of the box. Or, you can write special messages on the inside of the lid that can be read when the box is opened.  

Bookends

Nothing too fancy and they aren’t the hottest sellers, but if you come of with the right design they can do well.

It’s best to target something you would find on a kids bookshelf so keep it fun.

Statues and Trophies

If you only have a 3-axis CNC, statues and trophies are going to be tough to make. You can still produce them, but they’ll be bulkier and not so fine in detail.

If you have a 4-axis router, you can make better, more detailed products. However, as a word of caution, don’t try and make things too slender. The wood will likely snap under pressure from the drill, and all your work will be for naught.

Maps

a wooden map with blue pushpins in some locations

Maps are a super popular decorative item these days. People love them.

Maps of cities, states, countries, the world, or anything, really. Just a regular map – as in the cutout of a state or country – should be a generally easy project. You just need the right toolpath, and you’re good to go. It’s like carving any other project.

But, if you want to take things a step further, you can try a topographical map. These are becoming more popular by the day, and should sell fast.

They aren’t a beginner level project because it will take some messing with your software to get the map into your software and running. If you’re up to the challenge, though, these maps are super cool.

Clocks

wooden wall clock

Clocks aren’t much different than a sign for the most part. 

Clock mechanisms are pretty cheap and they come in a variety of styles so you are bound to find one that fits yours project.

For the face, you can get as creative as you want. Inlay it with a super cool design, or cut straight through the wood for a semi-transparent clock.

Glass Etchings

Glass etchings or engravings can make unique decorative items. Grab a diamond drag bit and some dollar store picture frames to practice with and work your way up to larger engravings. 

Pet related engravings make for great practice pieces and pet related products tend to sell well too.

Thrift stores make great places to find larger frames and glass on the cheap.

Check out the video below to get a feel for what kind of stuff you can create.

Child Growth Charts

Kids grow up so quick don’t they?

Make custom signs the chart their progress. Just make sure to keep your distance markings accurate. These make another great baby shower gift.

Planters

A springtime product that makes for a good Mother’s Day gift. Planters can be make extra fancy but there isn’t usually a great return on the extra work. 

Keep it simple and treat it like a sign with some cute or loving saying on the side. The color or finish you pick will play a big role in the popularity of this product.

Wall Art

wooden wall art

Who wouldn’t like beautiful feature piece for their wall. I won’t tell you how to make art, cause well…that sounds really hard.

What I can tell you is that people want big pieces when it comes to wall art so you will either need a larger CNC or will need to get creative with how you make it in sections. 

Patterns and textures are your friends here. The type of grain of the wood you use will be equally important. Just don’t jump into this one expecting to hit it rich. 

When done right, wall art can sell for hundreds of dollars or more but it isn’t easy for everyone to get right.

Photo Frames

With a little practice and some common tools, you can easily make your own photo frames. 

They work equally well as gifts for holidays and special occasions so they tend to sell very well. Pet related sayings or designs are probably the most popular. 

Everyone loves to show off their pets. Speaking of which want to see 535 pictures of my cat?

Yeah, I thought so.

For The Office

Book and Document Holders

Simple stands that leave room for adding some style. They aren’t the best sellers locally, but if you can add your own flair to one then they can really take off in the online marketplaces.

Phone Holders and Charging Stations

wooden phone holder

There is a huge market for anything phone related but things are highly competitive. 

Practice making them for your family as gifts before going full bore trying to turn a profit. They sell great but it can be tough to stand out in the crowded space.

Nameplates

Nameplates for a desk or door are fairly straightforward projects and are a great way to add some personality to anyone’s office space. In particular, anyone working in manufacturing, landscaping and outdoors, or construction would be good targets if you’re trying to sell these.

Business Cards

Custom-made business cards are a super unique niche that folks working in the industries mentioned above would love. A thin, wooden or metal business card carved from a CNC machine is a clear and obvious way to stand out from the crowd.

Plus, nobody’s going to crumble up and throw out one of these business cards. Memorable and difficult to throw away are perhaps the two most important features of a business card, making machined cards a fantastic item to have.

Engraved Pencils and Pens

Mark your business name on some to give away and get the name of your business into the hands of some people.

Additionally, they can make simple gifts with a touch of personalization.

The wide carpenter pencils work best because they have more flat area to put your engraving on. Who wouldn’t love a pencil that says #1 Grandpa?

For The Kitchen

Drink Coasters

a cup of coffee sitting on a wooden coaster

Drink Coasters are another super popular item to CNC. Virtually all homeowners have coasters because nobody wants to ruin a perfectly good table with a wet drink. Yet, at the same time, those cheap paper coasters are easy to lose and can get ruined over time.

But a solid, well-crafted, beautiful wood coaster is both practical and decorative. Coasters have a super wide target audience, so you shouldn’t have too much trouble trying to sell these.

Like so many other CNC projects, if you don’t know what to do to make it stand out then start with pets or cute sayings or better yet, cutes sayings about pets. It really works!

Cutting Boards

a cutting board with a gift tag

Like coasters, cutting boards have universal appeal because just about every person out there needs one. You can personalize cutting boards by carving a person’s initials or monogram into the corner of the board.

Cutting boards in the shape of your local state tend to sell well, although some states work better than others for this type of project. Not something to try in Hawaii.

As a word of advice, you’ll want to use dense hardwoods with a closed-grain for cutting boards. This means something like maple, walnut or cherry. These woods are smooth and flat, which makes them ideal for cutting. Also, the closed grain means raw food won’t get lodged into the board, which can be a health issue (and also an odor issue).

Cookie Cutters and Molds

These are great sellers around Christmas time especially. 

Look to sell them to home bakers as well as local bakeries. Don’t be afraid to head into some local businesses to see if you can drum up some business. 

Focus on how something simple like cookie shapes can help their business stand  out.

Charcuterie Boards

Otherwise known as adult Lunchables. These meat and cheese boards have become quite popular recently. 

Functionally they are very similar to cutting boards and may even use the same. Engraving sections that are labeled for meat, cheese, olives, fruit, etc. will make for a visually interesting product that can catch someone’s eye.

Cabinets Doors

closeup of kitchen cabinet doors

Like trim and molding, cabinet doors can be an easy sell to many homeowners because they look great and add value to the home. Basic cabinet doors are fairly easy projects and involve primarily straight lines. However, you can add value to your doors with more elaborate designs.

Similarly, more expensive wood means you can charge more for your work. Of course, that also means higher up-front costs. If you’re just getting started, though, MDF and primed plywood are cheap, readily available materials that you can make some nice cabinet doors from.

You won’t be making cabinet doors as your first project but with a little practice and a large enough machine, pretty much anyone could work their way up to cabinet doors without too much trouble.

Kitchen Utensils

Another dollar store favorite. Buy them for a dollar, put your engraving on and sell at a 500% markup. 

And while you are at the dollar store, look around for inspiration for other projects. Keeping your material costs low will make a world of difference in your profits.

Custom Wood Trim and Moulding

Trim and molding are a great way to monetize your CNC work because people are willing to pay top-dollar for a job well done. Good trim and molding add value to people’s home while also preventing damage, so it’s a win-win.

Plus, with most CNC machines, you can pass through the machine length-wise, meaning you don’t need to worry about machining several small parts and then putting them together.

Miscellaneous Other Projects

Keychains

These aren’t huge moneymakers but a couple dollars here and there adds up quick. The nice thing is that you can buy dozens or hundreds of blanks online to work with.

Pick up a display stand and put them on the corner of your table at the craft fair to pick up some extra sales. Alternatively you can engrave your logo on one side and a design on the other side and give them out free with each purchase. The advertising alone will pay for the keychains.

People love free things even if the cost is baked into your other items.

Door Hangers

red do not disturb sign hanging on door knob

Most people will think about a “No Girls Allowed” sign on a kids room door but try to think outside the box and find a way to sell to more profitable shoppers.

Local hotels or bed and breakfast establishments especially can be good prospects to try and peddle some do not disturb signs. The benefit of trying to get business from other businesses is that you will often get bulk orders.

Where to Sell Your CNC Projects

The next big question is where to sell these items. Products don’t do you any good if they’re just sitting on the shelf.

So we’ve compiled a quick list of the best places to sell your projects. If you want a more complete guide then check out our full post with tips and tricks for selling in each market.

Craiglist

It isn’t as popular as it once was but there is still plenty of money to be made on Craigslist. 

Craigslist is also free to post which makes it a great option.

Facebook Marketplace

Like it or not, Facebook Marketplace is one of the biggest and easiest places to sell your CNC projects.

Make sure to use it as part of your selling strategy.

Amazon

Selling on Amazon will give you access to a huge pool of customers but most people won’t be ready to handle the type of demand that can result if their product takes off. 

My recommendation is to take it slow and not tackle selling on Amazon until you have more experience with selling your CNC projects.

EBay

Ebay makes a good way to work your way up to selling on Amazon. They make shipping easy and they actively work to keep shipping costs down for you and the customer.

The biggest downside is the amount of competition present on Ebay.

Etsy

Etsy is very similar to Ebay but with a more “crafty” feel to the products. Keep this in mind when picking what products you plan to sell on Etsy.

Start Your Own Website

Making a website is not nearly as difficult as it used to be. Website builders make things super simple. 

The hard part is getting traffic to your site. Getting traffic from search engines such as Google can take a lot of work, but if you find a way to get people to go directly to your site then it can be worth it because you won’t be paying fees to the marketplace.

If you do make your own website then make sure to put it on as much stuff as you can.

Craft Fairs, Flea Markets and Craft Stores

Do not underestimate the power of selling locally. Thousands of people make full-time incomes making crafts and selling them in craft stores. 

Keep in mind there is likely a fee to sell at these events or stores.

These are the most popular choices for selling your products but check out our full guide for tips, tricks and some often overlooked places to sell your wares.

Complete Guide to Comments in G Code

a cnc machine running with g code overlaid

What are g code comments?

Comments in CNC g code are portions of the program that are ignored by the CNC controller and/or help the machine operator understand the program.

There are many different machine manufacturers and they can each have their own format for handling and identifying comments. In other words, what works on one machine may not work on another.

When in doubt try to find a manual or research your specific brand of CNC. We have outlined some of the most common CNC manufacturers and how they call out comments in the table below.

You can see that the two most common ways to identify a comment are by enclosing it in parentheses () or placing a semicolon symbol ; before the comment.

How to insert a comment into a g code program

The table below lists the symbol or character that is used to identify g code comments on a specific line of the program.

Take note that when parentheses () are used, everything between the open and closed parentheses will be ignored.

When the semicolon ; is used, all code after the semicolon on that line will be ignored and treated as a comment. Placing a semicolon inside a parentheses will not make the machine ignore the rest of the line, only what is inside the parentheses in this case will be ignored.

Remember, there are dozens or possibly hundreds of machine tool manufacturers and some may not adhere to these rules but this guidance will work for the majority of machines.

Machine Control Manufacturer

G Code Comment Character

Fanuc

Parentheses

Haas

Parentheses

Heidenhain

Semicolon

Hurco

Parentheses

Mitsubishi

Parentheses

Sinumerik (Siemens)

Semicolon

Yasnac

Parentheses

What should be included in a g code comment?

Comments can include anything that can help to operator or setup person to better understand how the program is operating.

Placing comments at key moments in the program can be a great way to help an operator. Letting them know if they need to perform an action or if the program is about to start a new operation (switching from roughing to finishing or starting to drill a set of holes) can be extremely helpful.

The best practice is to be brief but provide enough info. You don’t want to write a book and clutter up the program, but too little information can leave a person guessing or assuming what is happening in the program.

Creating good comments can help someone who isn’t highly trained in reading g code but they can also help you when you go to troubleshoot the program or try to edit or improve it later on down the road.

Where should you put comments in your CNC program?

In general, g code comments should be placed at the end of the program line to describe the current action. Some machines allow comments, specifically ones in parentheses (), to be added in the middle of the line.

I recommend avoiding this practice as much as possible. It can cause issues with some machines. Sticking with a semicolon or parentheses at the end of the line will help ensure your program is the most compatible with a wider assortment of machines.

As we noted above, it is also a good idea to include comments at the start of a new section of your program.

Tooling descriptions, offset information and descriptions of the operations being performed are all great info to include in the comments at the start of a new section.

A block of comments at the start of your program is a welcome addition that many CAM programs will automatically insert with information such as the program creators name, a date or revision of the program and miscellaneous other information.

When should you use comments in your g code?

Comments add to the size of the CNC program (not as much of an issue with newer machines) and also clutter up the code.

Use them sparingly and in the important places. You don’t need to comment ever move.

Comments work great at the start of program sections to help operators know what to expect or what is expected of them.

Complete Guide to Measuring Caliper Calibration

Calipers are precision measuring instruments that get used for a large variety of types of measurements. Most can measure outside, inside, depth and step measurements. That’s a wide assortment of things they can check for such an accurate tool.

But the question is how do you know you can trust the measurements you get from your set of calipers?

By calibrating them of course! Luckily, we got a thorough guide to take you through the ins and outs of calibrating your calipers. We included the hows, the whys, the what fors and most importantly, the actual steps you need to take calibrate your calipers.

Keep reading our guide to become a true caliper calibration connoisseur.

digital caliper measuring gauge block
Reading right on the money

Why do calipers need to be calibrated?

Calipers, including both dial and digital versions, get used for all types of precision measurements from engine work to reloading. It should be easy to see that these aren’t the type of measurements you want to get wrong.

For this reason, it is important to calibrate your calipers and ensure the readings you get are indeed correct. Calibration will allow you to verify that your caliper is accurate for all the measurements it can take and to top it all off, calibration isn’t that difficult. Simply follow our step-by-step guide below.

How often should you calibrate your calipers?

Before we get to the procedure for calibrating your calipers, there are some important factors to consider. The visual below lists some of the most common factors that affect how often you should calibrate your calipers.

calibration frequency infographic

Calipers can be calibrated at many different intervals. When setting the calibration frequency, you should take into account factors such as:

  • How the tool will be used? Will the caliper be used to measure critical dimensions?
  • How tight are the tolerances it will be used to measure?
  • Will it be subjected to stresses such as heat, humidity, pressure, physical stress or other environmental?
  • Will it get used often?
  • Does it have a calibration history and if so, has it been consistent?

The best practice is to take all of these factors into consideration and set how often you often the tool will be calibrated.

If a caliper is taking important measurements often, the calibration interval will often be 3-4 months or possibly more often. When they don’t get used frequently or the measurements they are used for are less critical, then they can be calibrated once a year or less often.

It all depends on what works for you or your shop. If you are unsure of where to start, calibrate more frequently and then adjust based on usage and how well the tool holds its calibration over time.

What equipment do you need to calibrate your calipers?

gauge block set
Gauge block set
starrett tool and instrument oil bottle with cap
Tool oil

Calibrating a set of a calipers requires a known standard such as a set of gauge blocks. This standard gets used to compare the measurement readings

Additional supplies such as gage oil and task wipers will also come in handy but aren’t required.

Choose gauge blocks that are at least four times more accurate than the accuracy of your caliper. This is easy to achieve with your average caliper.

Most calipers are accurate to a thousandth of an inch (“thou”) or 0.001”. This means you need a set of gauge blocks that are accurate to 0.00025” (two and a half tenths).

This 4:1 requirement started with the military specification, or mil spec MIL-STD-45662. This specification defined the calibration requirements for companies.

This requirement is a minimum requirement. Using gauge blocks that are 10 times more accurate than the caliper is even better and common practice in many machine shops.

Do you need to buy a caliper that is already calibrated?

No, there is no need to buy a pre-calibrated caliper. The difference between verifying a caliper is accurate and calibrating it is small. Because you will need to verify the accuracy of the tool when you get it anyways, it is best to take a few extra steps and calibrate the tool.

One reason why pre-calibrated tools are not recommended is shipping companies. Pretty much everyone has had a package destroyed by the delivery service. What can happen is the tool will get calibrated and then shipped to you. In the process of shipping, your precision measuring instrument is dropped, kicked, maybe even dropkicked across the country to your doorstep.

Physical abuse can cause the tools calibration to be affected. For this reason, it is best to check the caliper yourself and know that from the point you received it, it was accurate.

box damaged in shipping
Handled with care

What do you need to maintain for calibration records?

At a minimum, your records should include calibration labels for your tools and a database where you record calibration information.

Your calibration records don’t need to be anything too fancy. Labels or stickers to place on your tool and a place to record the calibration data such as measurement values, dates, tool number, etc. This calibration database can be something as simple as a notecard system or full-blown calibration management software.

If the caliper is for personal use only then you may find that you don’t need the records or labels at all, though it can be handy to have the records for reference even if they only get jotted down into a notebook.

What information should the calibration label include?

calibration label
Example calibration label

Calibration labels should include at least the calibration date along with the next calibration due date. It is also a good idea to include the initials of the person who calibrated the tool and the tool #.

Note: Sometimes it isn’t practical to place a calibration label on the tool itself. If this is the case, it can be acceptable to place the label on the case of the tool. However, when possible, the label should be on the tool.

What information should be included in the calibration database?

The calibration database can come in many forms. Card systems, spreadsheets, database files and specialty programs are often used to maintain calibration records.

The following information should be recorded in the calibration database:

  • Who performed the calibration
  • Date calibration was performed
  • Master standard that was used for calibration (gauge block set #)
  • Calibration checks to be performed
  • Acceptable limits for calibration checks
  • Actual readings from the calibration checks
  • Next calibration due date

While it isn’t always a strict requirement, it is a good idea to think about recording the environmental conditions such as temperature and humidity when performing your calibration.

Example calibration procedure for a dial or digital measuring caliper

  1. Read the entire procedure before beginning calibration
  2. If at any time in the calibration procedure a problem is identified, the problem will be corrected and the process will start over. If the problem cannot be fixed, the caliper will be taken out of service.
  3. Check accuracy with gage block(s) having accuracy not less than 0.00025”. Verify measurements at sizes that are not even intervals. Use sizes such as .206”, 1.456” or 4.784”. Avoid common sizes such as .250”, .500” and .800”.
  4. Close the O.D. jaws and inspect for damage. Hold the calipers to a light source and inspect for light between the jaws. Jaws which are misaligned will not be parallel and create a gap between the jaws which is easily detected with backlighting.
  5. Verify the zero setting by taking a reading when the O.D. jaws are in the fully closed position. If the caliper does not read 0.000”, zero the calipers.
  6. Verify the accuracy of the O.D. jaws by checking known standards such as a set of gage blocks at intervals across the entire measuring range. Measuring at 1.000”, 2.000”, etc. is acceptable, but it is preferred to verify measurements at irregular intervals such as .754”, 3.345”, 5.687”, etc.
  7. Record your readings in the calibration database.
  8. Repeat steps 3 through 7 for both the I.D. jaws and depth measuring rod if present on your caliper. Instead of checking the O.D. jaws for damage, check the I.D. jaws and the depth measuring rod.

Best Digital Calipers for the Money

Precise projects call for precise tools. When measuring, often that tool is a quality set of digital calipers.

And when we’re talking about CNC machining, we’re talking fractions of inches, not yards. 

Unfortunately, tools capable of ultra-accurate readings can run away in price, while the measurements given by cheaper models can be so far off that the tool itself is useless.

Fortunately for you, we’ve gone on the hunt and found the best value digital calipers on the market.

Name

Awards

Where to Buy

Starrett 798A-6 0-6" Digital Caliper

Best Digital Caliper < $200

Mitutoyo 500-196-30 0-6" Digital Caliper

Best Digital Caliper < $150

iGaging Absolute Origin 0-6" Digital Caliper

Best Digital Caliper < $50

VINCA DCLA-0605 0-6" Digital Caliper

Best Digital Caliper < $25

Best digital caliper under $200

Starrett 798A-6 0-6" Digital Caliper

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Pros

IP67 rating
Quality all around

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Pros

Price tag

Admittedly, this caliper from Starrett is not going to be for everybody. Mostly because it comes with a hefty price, but if you have the extra cash lying around, the 798A-6 is absolutely worth the money.

Starrett has been making tools of all types for decades and the level of quality they have been able to hold over that time is remarkable. While they have been able to produce heirloom quality tools for a variety of uses, their measuring tools stand out as easily some of the best stuff on the market.

Starrett micrometers have long been the gold standard of precision and their digital calipers are very much up to the task as well.

The 798A-6 has an accuracy of 0.001″, or 0.254 mm and a resolution 0.0005″ or 0.010 mm. More importantly, this isn’t a spec pulled out of left field somewhere. These calipers easily meet the specified accuracy. In fact, we have found that many exceed the listed accuracy and are accurate to 0.0005”. They don’t spec it, so there is no guarantee but likely you will find them more accurate than they claim.

In addition, this set of calipers holds its zero extremely well so you won’t find yourself resetting them often like you might with a budget tool.

The 798A-6 is made of high-quality stainless steel. The parts that are not stainless steel such as the LCD display feel well made as well. No cheap thin plastic here.

Speaking of the display, it is large and easy to read. A nice feature of the display is that it comes with a limited number of buttons to fiddle with. A button to switch from inches to millimeters and another to turn the unit off and on are the only two buttons present. The on/off button can be held to zero the caliper at any location for taking measurements relative to a standard. Keep it simple.

One feature that is so-so is the battery life. It is listed as one year which is good but not as long as some other high-end calipers such as the Mitutoyo 500-196-30 which lists a three-year battery life.

The battery life of this Starrett caliper is likely hampered by the auto off feature which takes 30 minutes to kick in. Something closer to 5 minutes would likely have been more than sufficient and kept the juice flowing longer. Making sure to turn the tool off after each use can help increase the life of your batteries.

Still, this battery life is very good and stacks up well above what you find with cheaper digital calipers, but it is one of the few areas where the 798A-6 isn’t the cream of the crop.

While they are noticeably well built, the included case is a welcome addition that will work to keep your caliper safe when it’s not in use. Way too often has a set of calipers been bumped off a bench only to hit a hard concrete floor. Stashing your prized calipers away when not in use will add an additional layer of protection.

The main reason for the high price tag of these calipers is the tools protection from the elements. In the electronics industry, there is a rating called an Ingress Protection (IP) rating, which measures the amount of resistance a device has to dirt, water, and other contaminants that can mess with the device.

The Starrett 798A-6 digital caliper has an IP rating of 67. When reviewing other digital caliper models, you will find that most have no IP rating (no protection from water, coolant, dirt, etc.). The majority of digital calipers that are IP rated will have an IP rating of 54. We won’t get too far into the details here but be aware this is a large jump in protection even when compared to the IP54 rated calipers. If you want more info about IP ratings, jump to the IP Rating section of our Things to Consider list below.

Last but certainly not least, let’s talk about accuracy. This is the main reason you need a digital caliper after all. This caliper from Starrett, like many others they make, is extremely accurate. Additionally, it holds its zero very well which means you won’t be constantly resetting it to maintain that accuracy.

To sum it up, you’re going to have to pay a pretty penny for this caliper, but due to its build quality, IP67 rating and most importantly, the excellent accuracy, it’ll likely be the last caliper you ever need.

Best digital caliper under $150

Mitutoyo 500-196-30 0-6" Digital Caliper

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Pros

Highly accurate
Long battery life

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Pros

No IP rating

You may recall another article we wrote where we ranked this Mitutoyo as the best overall digital caliper on the market. Our opinion has not changed. While this caliper is on the pricier end, it’s cheaper than the Starrett yet still incredibly accurate and durable. We really think it’s worth the money, and that’s not the fumes from the wood finish talking. We mean it.

The 500-196-30 caliper is made of stainless steel and has an accuracy of 0.001”, or 0.254mm and a resolution of .0005” or .01mm. The accuracy is what is important here and this caliper is right in line with the best of the best when it comes to accuracy. Similar to the Starrett 798A-6, the accuracy that Mitutoyo is able to provide will exceed what they have specified the accuracy to.

Again, they aren’t guaranteeing this level of accuracy but it really goes to show the level of quality found in these calipers.

We also appreciate how well-marked this caliper is. The scale and large display are very easy to read and there’s no mistaking the on/off, zero/abs, or in/mm buttons.

Something that could be easily overlooked is just how fast the caliper is. The display updates very quickly when taking measurements. Switching from mm to inches is accurate and instant. Don’t blame the caliper if you accidentally take a metric reading, these bad boys are spot on.

While this caliper from Mitutoyo might not be IP rated, it is still well protected. It doesn’t have the same level of protection that the Starrett caliper has but it will hold up well to light dirt, dust, and coolant. I wouldn’t submerge them in anything or hit them directly with coolant, but besides that you should find they are pretty resilient. I suspect they don’t have an IP rating because the battery cover doesn’t seal well enough to meet spec. Speaking of batteries…

A truly standout feature of this digital caliper is the battery life. We’ve used a lot of digital calipers through the years and none have the battery life that this one has.  Cheaper models generally run out of juice in a span of months. Higher quality tools like the Starrett will last longer, usually about a year, possibly more depending on use. This Mitutoyo caliper claims a 3.5 year long battery life! I don’t have time to check that claim, but I do know I can’t remember ever changing a battery in any of the Mitutoyo calipers I own or have worked with. These things are always ready to take a reading.

All in all, the Mitutoyo 500-196-30 is a top shelf tool. Most of the digital calipers from other high-quality manufacturers will be in this same price range and as a result they should be benchmarked against this caliper right here.

If money is no option, it makes sense to go with the Starrett 798A-6 to get a couple extra bells and whistles, but if not then this Mitutoyo is the best option. This caliper sets the standard for what you should expect from a digital caliper.

Best digital caliper under $50

iGaging Absolute Origin 0-6" Digital Caliper

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Pros

Two-year warranty
IP54 rated

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Pros

Battery life

The iGaging caliper finds a nice middle ground between the expensive, incredibly accurate and highly durable models above and cheaper models that start to have questionable accuracy.

Made of stainless steel, this caliper has an accuracy of +/- .001” or .02mm, and a resolution of .0005” or .01mm. This is in line with what you would expect from a good quality caliper.

Perhaps the best feature of this caliper is its IP54 rating. It isn’t as good as the IP67 rating of the Starrett caliper we noted above but it still amounts to a solid amount of protection from the elements, especially because this is a budget friendly tool.

Another plus that is unusual for lesser priced tools is that iGaging gives you a two-year warranty on the caliper. Most manufacturers (even the really good ones) only give a one-year warranty, if any at all.

The IP54 rating plus the two-year warranty means iGaging stands behind this caliper and it should be up to task for quite some time.

One downfall worth mentioning is that the iGaging caliper does lose accuracy as the battery power winds down. The problem here is that there’s no way to track the battery level.

We recommend checking your zero regularly to make sure you aren’t in need a new battery. The process is quick and easy. Also, remember to keep some spare batteries on hand for this reason as well.

While the battery issue isn’t ideal, we still think this iGaging caliper provides great value in terms of accuracy and overall build quality. The IP54 rating and two-year warranty are just the cherries on top.

Best digital caliper under $25

VINCA DCLA-0605 0-6" Digital Caliper

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Pros

Price

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Pros

Cheaper calipers generally less accurate

If you’re brand new to CNC machining, or if your budget is looking a little bit tight this year and you need to save on a caliper, one option would be to go with the VINCA DCLA-0605.

Though it’s a fairly cheap tool, it still provides a good amount of accuracy. The VINCA caliper has an accuracy of +/- 0.001″/.0254 mm and a resolution of 0.0005″/0.01mm. Remember, when picking a digital caliper, accuracy should be your main focus.

Additionally, this caliper comes with a case. For the price you’re paying, this isn’t a bad freebie, especially if you’re taking this caliper with you from site to site. Heck, even if you’re not travelling with your tool, it’s a good idea to protect it to ensure they remain accurate and protect them from the elements.

Another feature we like on this VINCA is the RS232 port. The port lets you plug the caliper straight into a computer to digitally transfer readings. Even just this slight bit of automation is a nice safeguard since inputting wrong measurements will cause your machine to make the wrong cuts, thereby ruining your project altogether.  

It’s worth noting that one of the nice features of these calipers can also be a pain. They turn on automatically when you slide them. The display also turns off after not moving for a bit.

In theory this is great but even the slightest movement or vibration can cause the display to turn on which drains the battery quickly. Luckily this can easily be remedied by gently turning the lock screw when you put them away to keep them in place.

This set of calipers from VINCA isn’t perfect, but they are accurate and cheap. I wouldn’t plan on them lasting forever but at this price point, this shouldn’t be an issue.

Neiko 01407A 0-6" Digital Caliper

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Pros

Cheap
Measures in inches, mm and fractions

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Pros

Display is awkward to read

The Neiko 01407A is another solid option in the same price range as the VINCA.

When it comes to this end of the price range for digital calipers, you will find that many are the same Chinese manufactured tool with different branding slapped on top.

In this same vein, the VINCA and Neiko calipers have very similar displays which both read in inches, mm and fractions. This LCD is large which makes it easy to read but because they read in fractions (which aren’t that useful for most people) the last few numbers on the display are smaller which makes them a little awkward to read. It’s not a dealbreaker, but just something that takes a little getting used to.

So, let’s get down to brass tax with these super budget calipers from Neiko and VINCA.

To be honest, we don’t really see a whole lot of differences between these two models. They offer similar accuracy, and both come in at around the $25 mark with similar features.

Just remember that these aren’t the kind of tools you will pass down to your kids but they will get the job down for a fraction of the price of the higher end stuff.

For these two calipers, our recommendation would be to buy whichever model is cheapest at the time. Keep your eye out for sales on these two models, and just go for the lower price. 

Can you find a cheaper digital caliper?

Sure, you can find calipers out there for dirt cheap. But you’re going to get what you pay for, so if you’re only willing to drop $10 on a caliper, just know that it’s not going to be very accurate.

We think it’s always going to be worth it to spend an extra ten spot on a nicer caliper. The two missed trips to Starbucks will be worth it for a tool that is both more accurate and more reliable.

Things to consider when looking for a digital caliper

Battery life

button cell battery for micrometer
Typical digital caliper battery

You might have noticed some of these calipers have a tendency to drain batteries, while others will last years on a single cell. Though most batteries aren’t incredibly expensive, they do add to the cost of the tool and it can be pretty darn inconvenient to have a dead tool and no backup batteries.

If you don’t go with a digital caliper with a long battery life, make sure to pick up some backup batteries to make sure your tool is always ready to go.

Measuring accuracy

After reading this review, you might’ve noticed that every caliper on here claimed the same measuring accuracy: +/- 0.001”. For Starrett or Mitutoyo, you can take them at their word for just about any spec.

If you are thinking about a tool on the bottom of the price range, then keep in mind that it might not actually meet the accuracy listed by the manufacturer. For this reason, we have prioritized accuracy in our budget friendly options above all other features.

If you need highly precise measurements that can be trusted without question, you better think about purchasing a more expensive caliper especially if you plan to use it for your day job.

Measuring accuracy vs resolution

Accuracy is how close a reported measurement is to the true value being measured. Resolution is the smallest change that can be measured.

Think about your car’s speedometer: Accuracy is how closely your speedometer measures the car’s true speed. Resolution is all of the little hashes on your speedometer, which indicate the speedometer can only measure in whole miles per hour (i.e. the speedometer reads “20 mph,” not “21.38 mph.”).

Be careful you don’t confuse the two. A digital caliper may give a reading (have a resolution) out to half a thousandth (0.0005”) but only be accurate to a thousandth (0.001”).

Measuring range

Every caliper we listed here measures 0-6”. This is by far the most common measuring range of calipers. You’re generally not going to need to measure sizes over 6”, especially as a beginner or hobbyist. If you are working in a machine shop, then likely the shop will have larger range calipers that can be used when needed.

0-6” calipers strike a great balance between measuring range and ease of measurement. Using a large caliper to measure smaller features can be very awkward. Use a 0-24” caliper to measure a 1” hole diameter, and you’ll quickly see what we mean.

IP ratings

As we mentioned earlier, an IP rating is the amount of resistance a device has to dirt, dust, water, and the like.

A lot of digital calipers – especially cheaper ones – have no resistance at all. If a caliper is IP rated, the average rating is IP54, which provides limited protection from dust and splashes of water. Honestly, for most people, IP54 is really all you’ll need for a caliper.

But some may want a more rugged caliper, and in that case there are some digital calipers which are rated IP67. This means they are virtually impervious to everyday dust and water.

With that being said, IP ratings don’t account for clumsiness, so if you drop your caliper on a concrete floor, it won’t matter what your IP rating is.

Below is a useful chart we made to help you navigate IP ratings. The first digit in a rating is protection from solids, while the second digit denotes protection from liquids.

ingress protection (IP) ratings solids description
ingress protection (IP) ratings liquid protection

Cases

Speaking of protection, some calipers will come with a case. These are precise measuring tools, which means they can be a bit delicate at times. It’s definitely not a bad idea to either buy a caliper that comes with a case or purchase your own.

Cases protect your investment and make locating your tool easier.

Materials

A good rule for calipers is to find one made from stainless steel. Though you may find models made from carbon fiber composites or plastics.

Again, we recommend a stainless-steel model, but the other kinds do have their benefits. A carbon fiber caliper is much less likely to scratch up wood, for example. They’re also non-magnetic, if that would be an issue for you.

Keep in mind the materials that you plan to work with but for most people, we recommend stainless steel calipers.

Best Deburring Tools [Based on Materials & Budget]

For your project to be truly complete, you have to smooth down any rough cuts and remove the burrs from any raw edges or holes. This is not only going to make your projects look better, but it’s going to make them safer as well; there won’t be any jagged edges that can cut your skin or tear your clothes.

This is where a deburring tool is comes in handy. While there are countless deburring tools on the market, we’ve made picking a tool easy for you.

That’s because we’ve scoured the internet, read all the reviews, and have some experience ourselves, and we’ve found the five best deburring tools on the available.

Name

Awards

Where to Buy

AFA Tooling Deburring Tool Kit

Best Overall Deburring Tool

YXGOOD Hand Deburring Tool Kit

Best Value Deburring Tool

Vastools Deburring Tool

Best Ultra Cheap Deburring Tool

Mavast Aluminum Deburring Tool

Best Deburring Tool for Metal

ORX Plus Tools External Deburring Tool

Best External Deburring Tool

Best Overall Deburring Tool

AFA Tooling Deburring Tool Kit

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Pros

Cuts a wide variety of materials
Aluminum handle
One-year warranty

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Cons

None

One thing we really love about this deburring tool is just how versatile it is.

This thing will help you deburr all kinds of materials from brass and steel to aluminum, copper, PVC pipe, wood and more. It also works well on plastics without melting them and does a good resin art too.

With so many different applications and coming in at such a reasonable price, it’s easy to make this our best overall deburring tool.

The kit, which is really just the tool and extra blades, comes with 15 blades. This includes 5 each of 3 different types. Each type works well with different materials.

One set of blades is for softer materials such as copper, wood, and plastic. The next set is for medium harness materials including aluminum, brass, and steel. The last set, which is designed for more difficult materials works well with stainless steel, tungsten, and other similar metals.

When you pick the right blade for your material, it will improve the finish of your break edge or chamfer that you are applying to the part.

Beyond its versatility, this deburring tool is also going to last you a long time.

The knurled aluminum handle provides superior grip and lends an overall solid build quality to the tool. This deburring tool can take a beating and still get the job done. Plus, with the extra replacement blades, you won’t need to worry about purchasing anything else, even if you do roll it off your workbench onto the concrete.

This tool from AFA Tooling comes with a swivel head which comes in handy for a number of different reasons. For any of you lefties out there, you can purchase this tool without having to worry about how you’ll hold it or risking using it with your right hand. The swivel head also means you can deburr your project, even if it has some weird angles or hard to reach places.

Lastly, when you buy this AFA deburring tool, you get a one-year warranty. Given the number of materials this tool can work with, the replacement parts, the swivel head, the warranty, and the price, we think this is the best overall tool on the list.

Best Value Deburring Tool

YXGOOD Hand Deburring Tool Kit

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Pros

10 HSS replacement blades
Swivel head

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Cons

Cannot cut through harder metals

If you’re looking for a mix of utility and price, you can’t go wrong getting this YXGOOD deburring tool kit set.

For one, it can be used on a fair amount of materials, including plastic, copper, aluminum, silver, and wood. While this list may leave out some of the harder metals, given what you’re going to pay for the tool, that’s more than fair. Additionally, you can pick up some replacement blades that are meant for harder materials if you find you need them down the road.

Speaking of replacement blades, the tool comes with 10 of them, all of which are HSS (high speed steel). This means that the blades will work on a good number of metals without dulling too quickly.

Also, like many of the nicer deburring tools, this one has an aluminum handle, so you know it’s going to be a nice and sturdy tool.

No one wants to bust a plastic handle while zipping along, deburring the edges of their parts.

Also similar to nicer models, this tool has a 360-degree swivel head, so you can use it whether you’re a righty or a lefty and it can be used in all kinds of strange angles and in the nooks and crannies that might be hard to reach with a tool that doesn’t have a swivel head.

All in all, this YXGOOD hand deburring tool is a really nice addition to your toolkit.

The only negative here is that the deburring tool can’t cut through quite as many materials as the tool above, but, again, given the price of this tool, that makes sense. Remember, you can always get some more robust replacement blades if you find you end up needing them.

If you want to get the most value out of your dollar, we recommend this deburring tool.

Best Ultra Cheap Deburring Tool

VASTOOLS Deburring Tool

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Pros

Low price
Swivel head

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Cons

No replacement blades

If can swing a few extra bucks, I definitely recommend going with one of our other recommendations. Let’s face it, these aren’t the most expensive tools under the sun.

While 50% more expensive may sound like a lot, when some of the tools can be had for under 10 bucks, it really isn’t that bad.

With that said, maybe you do need to pinch every penny. Maybe your significant other is a little cranky because you just laid out a decent chunk of cash for that new 3d printer. Every situation is different. I get it.

If this sounds like you then this deburring tool from VASTOOLS will likely get the job done well for you. In fact, working with 3d printed plastic and similar soft materials.

Where this tool will start to struggle is if you start trying to work with anything much harder than aluminum.

The fact that it can work with metals at all is excellent for a deburring tool on the cheaper end of the spectrum.

It also features a swivel head like our other recommendations as well as an aluminum body. When you start looking at tools in the ultra-budget category, you’re going to quickly see that most aren’t built as well and can be pretty limited in the materials that they can work.

Above all, we recommend making sure to get a deburring tool with a swivel head. It makes deburring in tight spots much easier and this tool is about as cheap as you can go and still get this feature.

Best Deburring Tool For Metal

MAVAST Aluminum Deburring Tool

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Pros

Comes with multiple blade types
Excellent customer service

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Cons

None

If you already know that you’re going to be doing a lot of projects with metals, you should really consider purchasing this deburring tool from MAVAST.

While it is more than capable of cutting wood, it can also easily deburr stainless steel, steel, copper, aluminum, plastic, PVC, and tin. And this is not just the manufacturer hyping up their own product, numerous other reviewers have testified that this tool can cut through hard metals without leaving behind any chatter and or gouging of their project.

Harder materials will dull up your blades quicker which is why this kit is great for metals. It comes with a whopping 21 different blades. This includes 11 standard HSS blades,5 BK3010 black HSS blades, and 5 BS1018 silver HSS blades, suitable for cutting stainless steel and other hard metals.

With this much versatility and toughness, you absolutely need to buy this deburring tool if you plan on mainly using metals. You’ll be glad you have ample replacement blades and the right blade for your material as well.

This tool also comes with many standard features you would expect, such as the swiveling head so that both right-handed and left-handed users can operate with the tool without a problem.

Another nice thing about purchasing a MAVAST tool is their customer service. The company has a great reputation for helping customers with any questions that come up. If things aren’t working like you planned with your project, it is always nice to get some quick support.

Best External Deburring Tool

ORX PLUS TOOLS Deburring External Tool

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Pros

Works with wide variety of materials

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Cons

Limited application

While these external chamfer/deburring tools have a little bit more of a limited use, that does not mean it’s not worth keeping one in your toolbox.

If you’re unfamiliar with these tools, they’re ideal for repairing damaged bolts and tightening nuts in their place. This means you don’t have to replace expensive or hard to find bolts, which can save you some cash – and some frustration – in the future.

To use this tool, you simply place it on the end of your drill. But be sure that you use an extremely low speed while you’re using it, or you could make the damage worse.

This particular ORX tool only works if you use it in a clockwise direction. Further, it works on a really wide range of materials, including stainless steel, hardened steel, mild steel, copper, brass, aluminum, fiberglass, wood, and plastic.

There is one downside to the tool, and that is the edges cannot be sharpened. With that said, because it isn’t an everyday use tool for most people, you’ll likely find that the tool never needs to be sharpened anyways. 

All things considered, we like this deburring tool because even though it has a limited range of uses, it does exactly what it is supposed to and does it well.

Things to consider when purchasing a deburring tool

Left hand vs. right hand

If you’re right-handed, you’re a bit luckier as far as this goes. Most machines and tools are made with right-handers in mind, so it’s the lefties that have to do the extra research.

Luckily, all of the tools in this article come with a swivel head, so you can adjust the deburring blade to fit whichever hand is dominant.

However, this may not be the case for all tools, so be sure to check the specs. If you’re a lefty and you don’t see a swivel head, you should probably reconsider buying the tool.

Spare parts

Even if you’re just a hobbyist, you’re eventually going to wear out the blade on your deburring tool. So while you may save money upfront by not buying a tool with replacement blades, eventually, you’ll be out of luck.

Many deburring tools online will come with extra blades, and it may be worth the extra investment.

Customer service

As always, don’t discount customer service. You may need to return an order, or you may have questions about how to use a tool, and when a manufacturer answers your questions promptly and respectfully, that’s always nice.

You can also usually tell the level of customer care by how well a package is wrapped when it arrives at your door. The shipping process can take a beating on your tools, and if they aren’t well wrapped, this can significantly lower the lifespan of your tool.

A well-packaged tool tells you that the manufacturer really cares about quality service.

Final thoughts

Deburring tools are fairly straightforward, but that doesn’t mean you should go with any old tool. As we noted above, all tools are certainly not created equal.

Our best overall choice from AFA Tooling does a wonderful job working with a good range of materials and packaging that capability up in a solid body that is built to last.

One last note, keep in mind the types of materials you plan on working with and how much use you plan to give it. The blades you get will make a big difference in the success of any of your projects or builds.

Pick a high quality deburring tool and you won’t be disappointed. Not only does it add a nice, professional finish to your project, but it can help with safety too. No one wants to get cut or tear a piece of clothing on a jagged edge. Deburr it!

PL on Blueprint – What It Means and Compared to Similar Callouts [With Examples]

What does PL mean on an engineering or manufacturing blueprint?

PL is an abbreviation for places. This notation will be shown with a number associated with it such as:

Chamfer 0.010” x 45 degrees 4 PL

When the PL note is used, it should be very clear what feature, edge, etc. that the callout applies to. Unfortunately, what was obvious to the person drafting the print and what is obvious to the person down the line reading it, does not always match up.

When in doubt ask the customer or someone higher up the food chain.

PL example on a blueprint

The example below shows two chamfer callouts that use PL notation. 

manufacturing blueprint that shows two chamfers with PL callouts

This is just a section of the blueprint but the overall part shape is square. The 4 PL refers to the 4 edges on each side there the main surface (S1 & S2) meet the sides of the part. 

Therefore the part should be chamfered at 0.5 x 45° all around on one side and 2.0 x 45° on all around on the other side.

Blueprint notes that are similar to PL

The #x format (2x, 4x, etc) gets used often in place of the places note. The PL example given above could be changed to either of the following and the requirement would remain the same:

Chamfer 0.010” x 45 degrees 4x or Chamfer 4x 0.010” x 45 degrees

Want to learn more?

GD&T is a complicated subject and understanding it correctly can be the difference between a perfect part and scrap.

The best way to learn GD&T is from experienced teachers who can break down the material into manageable pieces.

Luckily, we know someone.

And MachinistGuides.com readers get an exclusive discount on training!

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// Symbol on Blueprints [What It Is, How To Check It & More]

What does the // symbol mean on a blueprint?

Parallelism Blueprint GD&T Symbol two parallel lines
The GD&T symbol for parallelism

// is the GD&T symbol for parallelism. For the parallelism symbol, notice how the two lines of the symbol run together. They are parallel to each other. 

How to read a parallelism blueprint callout

The blueprint item that contains the parallelism callout is called a feature control frame.

The components of a feature control frame are shown below.

 

feature control frame description with parts identified

The parallelism symbol would be inside the first box to indicate the type of tolerance.

The tolerance amount is listed in the middle box. This tolerance is in the the same units that the rest of your blueprint is in. Many times this will be listed in general tolerance block of the blueprint.

The datum reference is the feature that the feature with the parallelism callout will be compared to. In the example below, datum A is on the left and the right side has the parallelism callout attached to it. 

This feature control frame reads “the right side of the part must be parallel within 0.02 to datum A”.

parallelism callout with feature control frame

How to check for paralleism

Other GD&T symbols

GD&T symbols are used to control the size, form and/or orientation of the different features on a part. 

Check out the list below to learn about other GD&T symbols and if you want a more in depth guide that includes then check out our Complete Guide to Blueprint Symbols

gd&t symbols
gd&t symbols

Related articles

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26 Types of Micrometers [Includes Pictures & Descriptions]

Micrometers come in many shapes and sizes. 

Our comprehensive list covers all of the most common and many uncommon micrometers found in machine shops, garages and workshops around the world.

Read on to see how many you’ve used or how many you even knew existed.

The most common types of micrometers

Outside micrometers

anytime tools 1-2" micrometer
Anytime Tools 1-2" Outside Micrometer

Otherwise known simply as mics. Your standard everyday micrometer. Used for measuring outside diameters, lengths, widths, thickness, etc. Commonly available in 1” measuring ranges.

The typical accuracy of an outside micrometer is 0.0001”.

Inside micrometers

mitutoyo inside micrometer set
Mitutoyo Inside Micrometer Set

Used for checking internal widths, diameters, and bores. The typical accuracy of an inside micrometer is 0.001”.

Depth micrometers

Starrett Depth Micrometer

Used for measuring the depth of slots and holes as well as the location of various steps. They tend to be less accurate than a standard micrometer. Most will have an accuracy of +/- 0.001”.

Styles of micrometers

Standard vernier micrometer

The old standby. This type of micrometer has been produced for decades and I’m sure will continue to be around for many more years.

They feature a rotating thimble that has a vernier scale wrapped around it. This scale is matched up with the scale on the sleeve to obtain your measurement.

Digital micrometer

mitutoyo digital micrometer
Mitutoyo Digimatic Digital Micrometer

Many of the micrometers listed are available as a digital version as well. Do not expect anything different between a digital and standard micrometer other than the display.

They have the same accuracy. Digital vs non digital is just a matter of preference.

Mechanical counter/digital mics

mitutoyo mechanical counter micrometer
Mitutoyo Digital Counter Micrometer

A less popular option, some of the micrometers listed can be purchased as a mechanical counter version. Some of the manufacturers call them digital, but the term is misleading.

Personally, I have never found them superior to other mics. I would avoid them. You can expect their accuracy to be in line with a standard micrometer of the same type.

Micrometer sets

anytime tools micrometer set with case and reference standards
Anytime Tools Micrometer Set

Because micrometers have a smaller measuring range when compared to some other precision measuring tools such as calipers, they are often purchased as a set. Micrometer sets are commonly available in 0-3”, 0-6” and 0-12” varieties with many other less common sets being available as well.

Micrometers with different spindles and/or anvils

Carbide tipped anvil and spindles

Carbide tips provide additional wear resistance for a micrometer, especially one that may see extra heavy usage. While they can be useful in this regard, the carbide tips are more brittle and have been known to chip.

For most people, your standard stainless-steel spindle and anvil will be good enough but both types work well.

Non-rotating micrometers

These micrometers work well for a number of applications. The spindle on this type of micrometer doesn’t spin to increase the accuracy of the measurement. It also has the added benefit of being less likely to damage surfaces where surface finish is extremely important.

Micrometers with rounded anvils

These micrometers allow you to measure features that are not flat such as the wall thickness from the edge of a hole another surface.

Micrometers with interchangeable anvils

mitutoyo interchangeable micrometer
Mitutoyo Interchangeable Anvil Micrometer Set

Often seen on large micrometers. Interchangeable anvils usually allow a single micrometer to measure over a 6” range in 1” increments.

Imagine a 12” micrometer that can swap anvils to measure any 1” range up to 18” and you will get the idea.

Blade micrometer

mitutoyo blade micrometer
Mitutoyo Blade Micrometer

Blade micrometers are used for measuring narrow features such as grooves, slots and keyways. The spindle of a blade micrometer won’t rotate to allow accurate alignment and measurement of your part.

V anvil micrometer

These micrometers are used to check for an out of round condition, sometimes called lobing. They are often used in the centerless grinding industry.

Tube micrometer

anytime tools tube micrometer
Anytime Tools Tube Micrometer

Used almost exclusively for measuring the wall thickness of round objects such as…you’re never going to guess.

Alright, I’ll tell you. They measure tubes! Surprising, I know!

The anvil on these micrometers is more rounded than what you would see on a micrometer with rounded anvils

Pitch-diameter micrometer

These micrometers have a special anvil and spindle to allow them to measure the opposite sides of a thread. The anvil has a double v shape while the spindle is pointed.

They have an overall measuring range such as 0-1” or 1-2” like a standard micrometer but also have a range of threads per inch or mm that they are capable of measuring.

Multi-anvil or universal micrometers

Starrett Mul-T-Anvil Micrometer

These micrometers allow you to switch the anvil so that the tool can take multiple types of measurements. One multi-anvil mic can take the place of an outside, tube and rounded anvil micrometer all in one.

Groove micrometers

Groove micrometers are used for taking measurements of grooves and other small features. Their low profile allows them to be used in tight spaces.

Disc micrometers

fowler disc micrometer
Fowler Disc Micrometer

This type of micrometer is frequently used for measuring thin sections of a part such as a sheet of material or the ribs or fins on a component. Often, they come with non-rotating spindles to keep the thin material from being twisted and giving an incorrect measurement.

Micrometers with special frames

Micrometers with insulated frames

outside micrometer
Mitutoyo Micrometer With Insulated Frame

Heat can cause metal or other materials to expand. When this happens, your part can appear to measure larger than it actually is. The same principle affects your measuring tool as well. This is why many micrometers will have an insulated grip to keep you from transferring your body heat to the micrometer and affecting the measurements.

Bench micrometer

Bench micrometers work like a combination micrometer and micrometer stand. They are used when the part to be measured can be brought to the workbench and will provide all the same benefits of using a good quality micrometer stand.

Sheet metal micrometers

mitutoyo sheet metal micrometer
Mitutoyo Sheet Metal Micrometer

Sheet metal mics will allow you to take a measurement away from the edge of the material. Useful for working with, well sheet metal duh but also other materials where you want to get closer to the center of the part and need the clearance to be able to do it.

Hub micrometer

Hub micrometers are used when a shallow frame is needed such as when you need to insert the tool into a hole to take a measurement.

Micrometer head

mitutoyo micrometer head
Mitutoyo Micrometer Head

Micrometer heads don’t have a body or frame. They are used for all sorts of applications where an adjustment needs to be made with a great deal of accuracy.

Some common uses are for in fixtures as well as machine setup.

Special application micrometers

Crankshaft micrometer

A specialized set of micrometers that have a larger than normal measuring range that allows them to take measurements you might need when working with crankshafts.

This range is typically from 1 ½” to 3 ½”.

Disc brake micrometer

Another special application micrometer. They are used for measuring the depth of the grooves in your brake rotors. Like the sheet metal micrometers, they have a frame that allows measurements farther away from the edge of the brake rotor.

Paper gage micrometer

Used in the paper and printing industries, these micrometers feature wider spindle and anvils that help keep them from compressing the material being measured to make sure the readings are accurate.

Micrometer accessories

Micrometer balls

starrett micrometer ball
Starrett Micrometer Ball

This attachment allows a standard outside micrometer to function like a tube or rounded anvil mic. The attachments do reduce the overall measuring range of your tool so keep that in mind.

Additionally, you will need to subtract the size of the micrometer balls into consideration when calculating your measurement.

Micrometer stands

grizzly industrial micrometer stand holding micrometer
Micrometer Stand Holding A Micrometer

Micrometer stands can give you a third hand when using your micrometer. While they work well to give you more freedom for maneuvering your part, they also help to reduce any heat transfer to the micrometer which could affect your measurement.

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