G81 CNC Code Explained: An Easy Intro for Beginners [Standard Drilling]

What does a G81 code do?

G81 calls a standard drilling canned cycle. 

It is a modal function that allows the machine (lathe or mill) to perform a one-pass drilling operation and retraction.

The machine will drill the hole in one straight shot and then retract out of the hole. There is no dwell or movement of the cutter away from the surface of the hole.

Just like other modal functions, you will need to deactivate it by calling another G code of the same type (canned cycle) or by using the G80 canned cycle cancel command to stop drilling.

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When to use a G81 code?

The G81 command is useful when you want to drill holes that are not too deep and can be drilled in just one step.

G81 is the most common drilling canned cycle used.

G81 can be used for spot drilling, counterboring, reaming, boring, center drilling and other drilling operations. It is a very simple drilling cycle.

The G81 canned cycle does not include any retract steps (pecks) when drilling.

For this reason, if you want to drill a deep hole, the best option would be to use the G83 peck drilling deep hole canned cycle.

Peck drilling will help clear chips.

Other codes used with the G81 code

G81 code format

The format for using a G81 command is shown below:

G98 (or G99) G81 X2.0 Y3.0 R1.0 Z-5.0 F25.0

It would be easy to assume that the Z location is the location of the start of the hole. In reality, it is the Z location for the bottom of the hole drilling movement.

Keep in mind that the X and Y coordinates of the hole are not usually in the same line as the G81 command.

In most programs you will see the G81 code in this format:

X2.0 Y3.0

G98 G81 R1.0 Z-5.0 F25.0

The program first identifies the coordinates of the hole and then starts the drilling process.

What to think about when using a G81 code?

Retract planes

visualization of how a cnc machine moves using g98 and g99 codes shows motion of travel for the machine

The retract plane is the location that the machine will return to after each canned cycle.

There are two codes that affect retract planes

The G98 code will cause the machine to return to the Z location at the start of the canned cycle. The G99 code will tell it to return to the R plane.

Selecting a retract plane that is above any potential obstacles in the machine such as fixtures, clamps, or the part itself will allow the machine to safely move between each hole drilling location.

If the R plane is too low it could cause damage on the workpiece and lead to disaster. However, if an R plane is too high above the workpiece’s surface, it could increase machining time, due to the extra time needed to go all the way up to the R value after each drilling. 

Positioning mode

graph paper example of absolute positioning with multiple points as examples
graph paper example of incremental positioning with multiple points as examples

When using the G81 drilling cycle, you will need to be aware of the positioning mode that is currently active.

If G90 is active, the machine will read all locations as relative to a single zero location.

If G91 is active, the machine will read all locations as relative to its current position.

Pay careful attention to your current positioning mode because using the wrong one can easily result in a machine crash.

How to cancel a G81 code?

The G80 command is used to cancel a G81 code as well as all other canned cycles.

If the G81 command is not canceled, then the machine will continue to drill holes in every location given in the program.

G81 vs similar canned cycles

The G81 command is the simplest drilling canned cycle.

Besides G81 there are a few other G-codes for drilling holes with slight variations in the drilling process which make them better to use in certain circumstances.

Code

Name

Function

Drill simple, shallow holes and center drilling

Standard drilling cycle with a dwell at the bottom of the hole

Drill into the part in steps (pecks) and after each peck, fully retract from the hole

Similar to G83, but instead of retracting completely out of the hole, the machine will pull back a specified amount and then resume drilling

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G74 CNC Code Explained: An Easy Intro for Beginners [Left Hand Tapping]

What does a G74 code do?

A G74 command activates the reverse, or left-handed tapping canned cycle.

Tapping is threading the female portion of a mating pair. Basically, this means you are creating the thing that will be screwed into.

Tapping is done by rotating the spindle, which holds the tap, down through the hole until it reaches the desired depth (bottom of the hole). 

three different taps used for creating internal threads with a CNC machine

When reverse tapping, the spindle should always be set to the counterclockwise direction with the M04 command.

Once at the bottom of the hole, the spindle will change directions and reverse out of the hole.

The G74 code is also used for peck tapping. Peck tapping is similar to peck drilling where the machine will tap in steps.

For instance, if your peck depth was 0.1” then the machine would feed down 0.1” and then back up. Then the machine would feed down to 0.2” and back up. Rinse and repeat going 0.1” lower with each peck.

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Other codes used with the G74 code

When using a G74 code you need to consider all the aspects that control the tapping process, these are:

The retracting value (R) or clearance level refers to the plane perpendicular to the Z-axis where the tool can move safely from one hole to another. 

The R value should be set so the machine will clear any and all obstacles including clamps, fixtures and the part itself.

G74 code programming format

The format for using a G74 command is shown below:

G98 (or G99) G74 X2.0 Y3.0 R1.0 Z-5.0 F25.0

It would be easy to assume that the Z location is the location of the start of the hole. In reality, it is the Z location for the bottom of the hole tapping movement.

Keep in mind that the X and Y coordinates of the hole are not usually in the same line as the G74 command.

In most programs you will see them in this format:

X2.0 Y3.0

G98 G74 R1.0 Z-5.0 F25.0

The program first identifies the coordinates of the hole and then starts the tapping process.

How to cancel a G74 code?

The G74 code is canceled with the G80 command.  

If the G74 code is not canceled, the machine will try to tap a hole at every new location given in the program.

When to use a G74 code?

The G74 code is used when you want to tap an existing hole in a part.

Never use the G74 command to drill a hole. 

This operation is only meant to remove the material that will form the threads of the holes, not create the hole as well.

What to think when using a G74 code?

Speeds and feeds

You will need to set the spindle speed before using the G74 cycle. When using G74, the spindle should always be moving counterclockwise through the use of an M04 command.

The feed rate of code G74 will be the pitch of your thread.

Various holds or overrides for speeds and feeds will not work when tapping. This is for safety purposes.

Hole size and location

Before using the G74 there must be a previous drilling cycle.

The correct hole diameter for a tapping operation will be the final diameter of the screw minus the pitch. For example, the diameter of the hole for an M10 x 1.5 mm hole will be 8.5 mm.

Keep in mind that the X and Y coordinates of the hole are not usually in the same line as the G74 command. The standard format for selecting your hole location and calling the G74 tapping cycle is shown below:

X50.0 Y50.0

G74 Z-40.0 R5.0 F20

The machine is moved to the location of the hole to be threaded and then the hole cycle is used.

Retract planes

visualization of how a cnc machine moves using g98 and g99 codes shows motion of travel for the machine

The G74 command is usually followed by the G98 code in the same line of code, in which case the machine will use the Z coordinate (height of the first hole) to move between holes.

When tapping it is advisable to set your R plane higher than usual.

CNC machines are capable of switching between modes very quickly, but the change is not instantaneous. 

The higher R plane gives the machine time to stabilize and ensure it is working at the correct feedrate before starting the cut.

G74 Rigid tapping

Rigid tapping means that the tap can remain rigid throughout the cycle. The machine spindle locks in with the feedrate similar to the screw cutting process.

There are tapping heads specially designed for this process.

To perform Rigid Tapping, the machine should be able to synchronize feed motion and spindle speed. This option may not be available on all machines, especially older ones. Check your machine manual to make sure you are capable of rigid tapping.

However, Rigid Tapping mode can cause issues due to chips sticking to the tool or increased cutting resistance. That’s why it is important to consider peck tapping.

G74 Peck Tapping

illustration that shows the difference between peck drilling and standard drilling in a CNC machine

Including the Q parameter in the G74 command line will immediately set the machine to a peck tapping cycle.

This means that the spindle will rotate to a specified depth (Q value) in each tapping peck and then repeat the process, one step or “peck” at a time until reaching the bottom of the hole.

Peck tapping allows chips to exit the hole, making the tapping process easier and safer. 

The downfall of peck tapping is that it increases machining time when compared to standard tapping.  

G84 vs G74

The G74 cycle is the left-hand tapping cycle, sometimes called the reverse tapping cycle.

It performs the same operation as the G84 command but with the difference that the spindle rotates counterclockwise instead of clockwise.

The G74 left hand tapping cycle creates left hand internal threads while the G84 canned cycle creates standard or right-hand internal threads. Left hand threads are the opposite of your standard threads.

If G84 creates threads that are lefty-loosey, righty tighty then G74 creates threads that are righty-loosey, lefty tighty. In other words, G74 creates threads that would be screwed in the opposite way of normal.

The G74 command also has the ability to peck tap.

Both the G74 and G84 commands are modal commands which means they will stay on and in effect until they are either changed or canceled.

The cancel code to use with both cycles is G80.

G74 code example

G00 X50.0 Y50.0

G74 Z-40.0 R5.0 F20

X25.0

Y25.0

G80 Z10.0

M30

In this example, the tool approaches the coordinates of the first hole (X50 Y50), then starts the tapping process.

The tapping operation is set to reach a depth of 40 mm and has a retraction plane of 5 mm above the workpiece. This procedure is repeated in 2 more holes in the positions (X25, Y50) and (X25, Y25).

The program stops the tapping cycle by using the G80 command.

Finally, the tool moves away from the part in the Z axis and the M30 command ends the program.

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G73 CNC Code Explained: An Easy Intro for Beginners [Peck Drilling]

What does a G73 code do?

G73 is a modal command that sets the CNC machine to run a peck drilling cycle.

The practice of peck drilling refers to drilling a hole in a series of steps (pecks) instead of drilling the complete depth of the hole in a single pass.

G73 tells the CNC to retract a small amount after each peck. This helps break chips.

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Difference between peck drilling and standard drilling

illustration that shows the difference between peck drilling and standard drilling in a CNC machine

The main difference between peck and standard drilling is that the peck drilling process removes the material in multiple steps, while standard drilling is a one-step process.

Both commands are intended to make holes, but the peck drilling cycle allows more control over how the hole is drilled.

Peck drilling is the first option for CNC programmers when making blind holes. 

The pecking process helps break chips as well as remove them and any other debris from the hole during the drilling process.

Trouble removing chips from the hole when drilling can cause size and/or surface finish issues.

Standard drilling is far more common when dealing with simple through (thru) holes.

Parameters used with a G73 code

The feed rate (F) is dependent on the material that is being cut and the diameter of the drilling tool that you are using.

The retracting value (R) or clearance level refers to the plane perpendicular to the Z-axis where the tool can move safely from one hole to another.

Also, some machines might use L instead of K for cycle repetition (depending on the model and machine type). If you are the programmer, remember to check the machine’s manual for further details.

An example G73 code would look something like:

G73 X2 Y3 R1 Z-5.0 Q1.0 F25.0 L2

How to cancel a G73 code?

The G80 command is used to cancel a G73 code as well as all other canned cycles.

If the G73 command is not canceled, then the machine will continue to drill holes in every location given in the program.

Is the G73 code the same on a lathe as a mill?

No, the G73 code performs a different function on a CNC lathe.

On a lathe, the G73 code is used for a pattern repeating cycle. The machine will cut the same pattern multiple times, stepping in on each pass.

When to use G73 code?

If you want to make a shallow hole, you won’t probably need the G73 code.

There is no need for the tool to take on several pecks if the depth of the hole is less than an inch (depending on the material and tool).

The G73 command works best when you follow a general rule: 

If the depth of the hole is 3 to 4 times greater than its diameter, use a peck drilling cycle such as G73.

G73 vs G83

an illustration that shows the difference between the G73 and G83 CNC codes

The most similar code to G73 is G83.

Both are peck drilling cycles with one key difference.

G83 will retract completely out of the hole after each peck to the retract plane. G73 will only retract to the start of each peck.

The G73 canned cycle is a peck drilling cycle but with a shorter retract intended for relatively shallow holes. Meanwhile, the G83 command is peck drilling with a full retract intended for deep holes.

Both commands are meant to help break and clear chips. G83 does a better job of this by fully retracting out of the hole but with the added expense of a longer cycle time.

On the other hand, G73 is designed to break up stringy chips, while G83 is intended to pull chips up and out of deep holes.

G73 vs similar codes

Besides G83 there are a few other G-codes for drilling holes with slight variations in the drilling process which make them better to use in certain circumstances.

Code

Name

Function

Drill simple, shallow holes and center drilling

Standard drilling cycle with a dwell at the bottom of the hole

Drill into the part in steps (pecks) and after each peck, fully retract from the hole

Similar to G83, but instead of retracting completely out of the hole, the machine will pull back a specified amount and then resume drilling

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G43 CNC Code Explained: An Easy Intro for Beginners [Tool Length Compensation]

What does a G43 code do?

The G43 code turns on tool length compensation.

Tool length compensation allows the CNC machine to account for the length of your cutting tool that has been entered and stored in an H offset value.

H offsets and G43

a variety of cnc cutters with text overlay that says different offsets for different length cutting tools

The G43 command tells the machine to turn on tool length compensation, but it is the H code that tell the machine how much to compensate for.

The H offset number will correspond to a value stored in the machine’s memory, often entered at the time of setup. This value will be for the length of the tool. The memory storage location is often called an offset table or library.

There are multiple H offsets that can be stored in the tool table. Each tool will have its corresponding H offset value.

The best practice when storing offsets is to match the tool number with the H number. This means for tool #1 you will store the tool length offset in H01. For tool #2 you will store the offset in H02 and so on.

mach 3 tool offset table

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How to use a G43 code

You know the G43 code is used in a CNC program to account for the tool length, but why does it matter?

It matters because without a G43 code, you would need to create a new program every time you wanted to run the same part with a different tool.

An H code is used with the G43 code to select the height (H) offset value. The H code tells the CNC which H (height) offset value to account for when running the program.

This allows any number of tools to be used in the same program as long as your controller stores enough offset values and those offset values have been entered correctly.

When a G43 code is not active, the machine will move the end of the spindle to all locations in the program.

an illustration of a cnc machine that shows how a g43 code offsets the program

When the G43 code is active, the machine will move the end of the cutting tool to all locations in the program.

You can see how not having the G43 code on when needed could cause a crash. You are trying to move the end of the spindle to a new location and if a tool is loaded in the spindle then it is in the way of that movement.

This can mean you end up with a damaged part, broken tool or maybe even damage to your CNC.

Where does the G43 code show up?

G43 will often be used at the start of a new section of code.

This will ensure that you have tool length compensation on and the correct H offset applied before running that section of code.

Making sure they are on and set to the correct offset will allow you to run only that section of code if needed.

This can be helpful if a particular feature or size of the part being worked doesn’t come out as intended. It is common to need to rerun only a section of your CNC program to dial in the size.

To make sure this is possible you need to make sure your machine is always set to the correct modes using modal commands.

G43 is one of those modal commands, which means it stays active until switched or canceled. The same goes for many other g codes.

The best practice when dealing with modal commands is to not assume that they will be on when you need them. 

You should call them out in any section of your program where they will be needed. This practice is called using safety lines or safety codes in your program.

It is better to be safe and include them than to not and be sorry when your machine crashes.

How to format your G43 codes

There are three parts to your G43 code.

The G43 code itself, the H offset number to use, and a location move.

Altogether they should look similar to this line of code:

G43 H02 Z1.0

In this example G43 turns the tool length compensation on using the 2nd H offset value and moves the machine to a location 1 unit above the Z axis zero location.

Note that tool length compensation with the H02 offset for all future moves until it is turned off or changed.

How to cancel a G43 command

G49 is the command that cancels tool length compensation.

It will cancel any active G43 or G44 modes that may be active.

G49 is often used at the beginning of the program as part of the safety lines or safety block of code that initializes the machine and makes sure all of the correct modes are set.

What to think about when using a G43 code

When using a G43 code the most important thing to think about is avoiding collisions.

Correctly using the G43 code will also help make sure that your parts come out the right size.

The G43 code will take effect on your first Z axis move after using the G43 code. This will usually all be the same line of code.

You want to avoid getting too close to your part before calling out the G43 code. Call out your tool length compensation while you are still a safe distance away from your workpiece to avoid crashing your machine.

G43 vs G44

G43 and G44 are opposites.

One is a positive compensation, and the other is a negative compensation.

G43 tells the control to adjust for a positive length compensation.

G44, which is rarely used by most shops, tells the control to adjust for a negative tool length. 

I wouldn’t worry about understanding why or how to use G44 if you are just starting out. Get a little experience under your belt before worrying about this rarely used code.

CNC codes that are similar to G43

We established that G44 works much like a G43 code but what other similar codes are there available.

The other main types of cutter compensation are the G41 – Cutter Compensation Right and G42 – Cutter Compensation Left

These cutter compensation codes allow the machine to account for the diameter of the cutting tool. Which one gets used depends on the type of cutting you are doing.

Climb milling will use the G41 code. Conventional milling will use the G42 code.

The cutter compensation G codes G41 and G42 adjust for the diameter of the cutter while G43 accounts for the length of the tool.

Please note that G41 and G42 are also modal commands, which means they will stay on until turned off or switched.

G43 code example

Check out the G43 code example below to see how the code affects what the machine will do.

The N numbers below, such as N100, are line numbers for your program. Some programs might not include them, but we left them in so they don’t confuse anyone.

Example #1:

N100 T02 M6                                   

N105 G00 G43 H02 Z1.0

N110 G01 Z-2.0 F5

Line 100 selects tool #2 and changes to that tool.

Line 105 sets the movement mode as rapid and turns on tool length compensation while moving to Z = 1.0

Line 110 sets the movement mode as straight line movement and moves the tool to Z=-2.0 at a feed rate of 5 units per minute.

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G42 CNC Code Explained: An Easy Intro for Beginners [Cutter Comp Right]

What does a G42 code do?

G42 is a modal command called cutter compensation right.

This code adjusts the path of the cutting tool based on the diameter of the cutter.

If you are looking towards the direction that the cutter is moving, the tool path is shifted to the right.

There are also codes for using no cutter compensation (G40) as well as using cutter compensation left (G41).

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What is cutter compensation?

illustration that shows how a CNC will act when using cutter compensation right with the G42 code

Cutter compensation is a CNC mode that allows the CNC controller to adjust for the size of the cutting tool.

Setting the size of the cutting tool allows you to use the same program with multiple different cutting tools.

Turning cutter compensation on tells the machine to shift the cutting tool either left with G41 or right with G42. The shift is half of the diameter of cutting tool, otherwise known as the radius.

Visualizing which way the machine will shift can be a little tricky. The shift happens as if you are looking towards the direction that the cutter is moving.

G41 vs G42

There are two different cutter compensation modes that can be used:

The direction of the shift is relative to the cutting tools direction of movement.

G41 is used when climb milling, which is the most common type of milling used.

G42 is used when conventional milling. Conventional milling sounds like it would be the standard but in reality, it is rarely used.

When climb milling, the cutter moves in the same direction as the stock feeds, which means that the workpiece produces less resistance to the cutting as the chips fall behind the cutter.

This type of milling helps prolong the life of the cutters and creates a better surface finish. This is the most commonly used milling method CNC machines.

On the other hand, with conventional milling the cutter runs in the opposite direction of the stock feed, which means that the cutter will have more resistance against the workpiece and cause more tool wear resulting in a shorter tool life.

The two images below show how the CNC will move when the other cutter compensation modes are active.

illustration that shows how a CNC will act when using cutter compensation left with the G41 code
illustration that shows how a CNC will act when there is no cutter compensation mode active
How the CNC will move when cutter compensation is off

Advantage of using cutter compensation

The advantage of cutter compensation is that you won’t need to rewrite your program continuously to adjust for the size of your tool.

Imagine you bought a new end mill, and it came in 0.001” smaller than the last one. This would mean that your parts would now come out larger than before. To account for this you can use cutter compensation and your D offsets to tell the machine how big the cutter is.

This allows you to continue using the same program even though your cutter has changed.

Cutter sizes and D offsets

Even if you were to buy two of the same cutters, it is likely that there is a small difference in size between them. This difference in size is accounted for using offsets.

There are H offsets and D offsets that can be used when CNC machining.

illustration of a cnc cutting tool that shows what an D offset is

Because we are talking about cutter compensation with G42, we are going to focus on D offsets.

D offsets are stored in your machine’s controller, and they store the diameter of your cutting tool.

Now usually when the machine reads the coordinates given in the program, it moves the center of the cutting tool to that position. This can make it difficult to get the correct size especially when using different or multiple cutters.

Telling the machine the size of the cutters with your D offsets allows it to account for them and run the same program with different tools and get the same size part.

If you didn’t have cutter compensation, then you would need to create a new version of the program every time you wanted to use a new tool.

Using Tool Offset Table for Cutter compensation

mach 3 tool offset table

The Tool Offset Table, sometimes called Tool Table or Offset Library, is simply a table that the operator uses to store the offset values. This can include both diameter (D) and tool length (H) offsets.

Tool offset tables vary and some machines will only store one type of offset.

This means you may need to store both your diameter and tool length offsets in a D offset.

Some other machines may allow you to store the diameter and length of a cutting tool in the same offset number. The setup varies by machine so check yours out to make sure you know how it works.

The purpose of the Tool Table is to tell the CNC machine what the dimensions of the cutting tool are. This includes radius and length.

How to turn off cutter compensation

Cutter compensation with G42 is canceled by using the G40 code which cancels all active cutter compensation modes.

Alternatively, G42 can be canceled by switching to cutter compensation right by using the G41 code.

The two main things to pay attention to when using G40 to cancel cutter compensation are:

  • Cancel cutter comp when you are off the part more than half the diameter of the cutter
  • Make a move when canceling cutter compensation

Canceling off the part enough keeps the machine from running back into the part.

Making a move forces the machine to move in a consistent way. Some machines can react unexpectedly if no move is made when canceling cutter compensation. The machine basically thinks it has teleported location.

Don’t teleport your CNC. Make a move when canceling cutter compensation.

G42 programming format

There are multiple ways of formatting a G42 command:

  1. G42 D1. When the G42 code is used with a D offset it is meant to be used on a machine with a built-in tool table in the controller. G42 turns on cutter compensation left and D1 tells the machine to adjust the tool path based on the size stored in the first D offset.
  2. G42 P2. The P value is the radius of the tool used in the operation. This format is used more often on hobby level machines.
  3. G42 X2. This format is the same as using the P value.

Focus on learning the first format unless you plan to only ever use simple home level machines.

Other types of compensation

The other main form of compensation is tool length compensation.

Tool length compensation is turned on with either G43 or G44. Although G44 is almost never used. G43 is by a super wide margin the most often used tool length compensation.

Tool length compensation accounts for the length of the cutting tool relative to the end of the spindle.

Tool length compensation is canceled with the G49 code.

Want to learn more about CNC G Code?

Beginners Guide to Rapid Traverse for CNCs

Key Points

  • Rapid traverse is full speed movement
  • Rapid travel and rapid traverse are the same thing
  • The G code for rapid traverse is G00 on CNC mills and lathes
  • The rapid speed can be adjusted using the rapid override

What is rapid traverse?

Rapid traverse, sometimes referred to as rapid transverse or rapid travel, is used for moving a machine tool around the workpiece as fast as possible. 

Depending on the type of machine tool, this is accomplished in different ways. See below for more information related to CNC and manual machines.

How fast does the machine move in rapid traverse?

First let’s talk about speed.

Rapid traverse speeds vary based on the machine.  A good quality desktop CNC will usually be capable of speeds around 100 inches per minute (IPM).

homemade cnc router machine
Homemade “garage” CNC

Larger, industrial grade CNC can often move at speeds of 1,000 inches per minute or more. 

industrial cnc machine
Industrial grade CNC mill

No matter what type of CNC you are using, you will want to make sure that nothing is in the way when these moves are being made in a CNC machine. 

Crashing a CNC at normal speeds is bad enough, crashing a CNC at rapid speeds could be catastrophic.

Can rapid traverse speed be adjusted?

cnc control board with rapid travel dial identified with arrow
Rapid Override Dial

Most CNC machine controls have an adjustment to dial back the rapid travel speed. This is often referred to as Rapid Override or something similar. This override allows the CNC operator to adjust the rapid speed, usually in the form of a percentage of the full speed.

Some shops need to run full speed. Time is money after all, but many machine shops will dial things back a little for safety.

How does the CNC move during rapid travel?

straight line movement example

Newer CNCs will move in a true straight line fashion, however some older CNCs can process the command in different ways.

Some machines may only move one axis at a time while others will move in other strange ways. The most important thing is to be aware how your specific CNC control will process the rapid travel command and create your program to account for this movement.

Because various machines will process commands in different ways, this means you may not be able to take a program and a setup and run it on a different machine.

What is the G code for rapid traverse?

rapid traverse code example

The G code for rapid movement is G00. 

This applies to both CNC mills and lathes. 

In the example above, G00 is the code for rapid traverse and the X and Y values are the position that the machine is to rapidly move to.

Rapid movement can happen in the Z axis as well.

What should you think about when using rapid travel?

When you are zipping your CNC back and forth think about:

  • Part location – it can be easy to forget about a step in your part and attempt to move over the top of you part at a Z height that is too low
  • Fixturing – similar to your part location, remember that you often have clamps, vises, etc. that will be in your machine and it’s best to avoid them
  • Removing material – don’t cut in rapid mode, it will result in size issues and poor surface finishes at best

Rapid traverse in manual machining

bridgeport milling machine with rapid power feed pointed out
Power feed marked by red arrow

Many manual machines, such as a Bridgeport mill, use a power feed to rapidly move around the workpiece. 

These power feeds are not as fast as a CNCs rapid moves but they are still much quicker than the standard speed which usually involves cranking a handle to position the machine. 

Related articles

For more information see these related articles:

How to Read A Dial Caliper [With Lots of Pics]

Reading a dial caliper doesn’t have to be difficult. 

There are two main parts to using a dial caliper:

  • Understanding the parts of the caliper
  • Reading measurements from the tool

Parts of a dial caliper

It is going to be hard to use a dial caliper if you don’t know what the different parts of the caliper are called. 

Here is a quick run through for anyone who doesn’t already know the parts of a dial caliper.

a dial caliper with the different jaw measuring faces identified

The jaws of the caliper are the parts that will come in contact with your part when taking a measurement. 

There is one set for taking inside (internal) measurements and one set for taking outside (external) measurements.

the depth measuring rod of a caliper identified
the step measuring surface of a caliper identified

Most calipers can also take depth measurements with the depth measuring rod and step measurements using the back of the caliper.

the dial face of a dial caliper with the lock screw, dial face, dial bezel adjustment and thumb roller identified

Parts on the body of the caliper:

  • Dial face – Half of your measurement will be read from the dial. The other half will be from the scale on the beam of the caliper.
  • Lock screw – For locking the caliper in place. Measure, lock, read the measurement. Not needed with all measurements, but handy when working with parts that make reading your dial caliper difficult.
  • Bezel adjustment – Allows you to spin the dial face. For use when zeroing your caliper.
  • Thumb roller – Use this to apply an even amount of force when taking your measurement. 
Dial caliper scale

The beam of the caliper is the part that the body/dial face slides along. 

The beam has a scale which is used to take half of the measurement. The scale reading gets added to the dial reading for your final measurement.

Reading your measurement

Now that we know what to call everything, let’s go through the steps to take a measurement with your dial caliper.

  1. Get ready to measure
  2. Measure your part
  3. Take a reading from the scale
  4. Take a reading from the dial
  5. Add the two readings

Step 1: Get ready to measure

Before you take a measurement with the dial caliper, make sure things are set up to allow you to get an accurate measurement.

You want:

  • A clean caliper. No dirt, dust, crud, rust, etc. 
  • A working caliper. Inspect for damage. Make sure the lock screw is loosened and the caliper body slides freely.
  • Good lighting. If you can’t see good, it will be hard to tell the difference between a 1.000″ and 1.001″. Proper lighting is your friend. 
example of trying to read a dial caliper in bad lighting conditions
Good luck taking this measurement

Step 2: Measure your part

Most dial calipers are capable of taking 4 types of measurements:

  • Inside
  • Outside
  • Depth
  • Step

Inside measurement

dial caliper taking a internal measurement

Outside measurement

dial caliper taking an external measurement

Depth measurement

dial caliper taking a depth measurement

Step measurement

Make sure your not taking measurements off angle. If you have an angle on your part or your caliper, it can give you false readings.

With a little practice, it will be easy to get a feel for when your caliper is straight.

Step 3: Take a reading from the scale

a dial caliper with text that shows how to read the bar of the tool

The scale on the beam of the dial caliper has lines that mark the graduations. 

Most dial calipers will have them in increments of one hundred thousandths of an inch (0.100″).

You will take the reading of the last visible graduation. In the picture above, the line that would equal 3.100″ is not visible. This means that the the measurement is under 3.100″. Because the line isn’t visible, our reading from the scale would be 3.000″.

Step 4: Take a reading from the dial

The face of a dial caliper showing how to read the graduations on the diall

The dial face of most dial calipers has 100 graduations that each equal one thousandth of an inch (0.001″).

Simply count the number of lines. In the picture above, the dial reading is 0.027″.

Step 5: Add the scale and dial reading

Now you have your scale reading and your dial reading, add the two together. 

Let’s try another example. 

In the pic below, you can see that this time the 3.100″ graduation line is visible. This gives us a scale reading of 3.100″.

The needle of the dial is on the 6th graduation which equals 0.006″.

3.100″ + 0.006″ = 3.106″

a picture of a dial caliper with the instructions about how to read a measurement

Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

And if you still need more practice, check out the Dial Caliper Practice Quiz to make sure you have the process down.

How to Read a Micrometer – Beginner’s Guide

Are you new to using a micrometer and not sure where to start? 

Don’t worry, you’re in the right place! This article will give you a step-by-step guide on how to use a micrometer correctly and with confidence. 

You’ll learn about the different parts of the micrometer, how to read the measurements, and even some tips and tricks to help you out. 

Check out the secrets to mastering micrometer measurement.

Parts of a micrometer

Before we talk about taking measurements with our micrometer, let’s have a quick refresher on the various parts of the micrometer. 

a micrometer with all of its part identified

Taking a measurement with your micrometer

Alright, let’s get down to business. 

I’m assuming you’re ready to take your measurement now. 

If you need tips for getting ready to take your measurement then skip to the bottom where we have some advice laid out.

For everyone else, grab your micrometer and your part to measure.

To take the measurement we are going to take four separate readings from the micrometer and add them up for our final reading.

Put your part between the anvil and spindle

a micrometer with the anvil and spindle identified

Put the part in between the anvil and spindle of the micrometer.

This might require you to spin the thimble to open the micrometer enough to get the part in there.

a micrometer with the thimble identified

Close the micrometer on the part

Now spin the thimble until it closes on the part. 

Remember you aren’t trying to clamp down on the part. 

Use a gentle, consistent amount of force when spinning the thimble. Using the ratchet on your micrometer can make this easier. Try spinning the thimble until you get three clicks on your ratchet.

closeup of a micrometer with the ratchet stop identified

We’ve done that now and we have the reading below on our micrometer.

a closeup of a micrometer measurement reading

So let’s break down the four parts of this reading.

The 0.100" reading

closeup of a micrometer with the 0.100" graduations identified

The first part of the reading is the 0.1000″ reading. This is our hundred thousandths or “hundred thou” reading.

In the example above we can see that the larger lines on the sleeve of the micrometer are numbered. 

Each of these larger lines equals another 0.1000″.

We are taking our readings at the intersection of the lines on the thimble and the sleeve. Because the 3 is the last hundred thousandths graduation shown, the first part of our reading is 0.3000″.

The 0.025" reading

Next is the 0.0250″ or 25 thousandths reading. 

This reading is also taken from the sleeve of the micrometer. 

 

closeup of a micrometer with the 0.0250" graduations identified

Each of the lines on the sleeve equals another 0.0250″. In our example, we can see two lines after the 3 which equals 2x 0.0250″ = 0.0500″.

This means so far our reading is 0.3000″ + 0.0500″ = 0.3500″.

The 0.001" reading

There are 25 lines around the thimble of an inch micrometer. 

Each of these lines equals 0.0010″ or 1 thousandth.

In our example we can see that we are on the 15 so our reading is 0.0150″.

closeup of a micrometer with the 0.0010" graduations identified

Let’s check in on our measurement so far. 

We have 0.3000″ + 0.0500″ + 0.0150″ = 0.3650″.

The 0.0001" reading

The last part of our reading is the tenths (0.0001″) reading.

Note: some micrometer don’t have a 0.0001″ reading. This is more common on older or very cheap micrometers.

To take the tenths measurement we look at the numbers that go around the sleeve of the micrometer.

closeup of a micrometer with the 0.0001" graduations identified

We take the reading where the number on the sleeve lines up best with a line on the thimble. 

In the pic above you can see that it looks like the 6 on the sleeve lines up best with a number on the thimble. This would make the final part of our reading 0.0006″.

We now have all four parts of our reading. The 1, 25 and 100 thousandths readings as well as the tenths reading.

If we add them all up we get 0.3000″ + 0.0500″ + 0.0150″ + 0.0006″ = 0.3656″

Note: our measurement was taken using a 0-1″ micrometer. If we used a 1-2″ micrometer then we would add 1″ to our measurement. If we used a 4-5″ micrometer then we would add 4″ and so on.

Taking multiple measurements

One last thing to keep in mind when taking micrometer measurements is that you should take multiple readings.

These are very accurate measurements and it is easy for something to go wrong

Clamping too hard, being a little off angle or a piece of dust or lint can really throw off your measurement.

Taking multiple measurements helps build confidence that your measurements are correct.

Micrometer reading examples

To give you a little more practice let’s look at a few more readings.

All of these examples assume you are using a 0-1″ micrometer.

Example #1

a micrometer closeup with a reading of 0.1370"

Here we have 0.1000″ + 0.0250″ + 0.0120″ = 0.1370″.

The tenths reading lines up with the zero so we don’t add any tenths.

Example #2

a micrometer closeup with a reading of 0.5500"

Here we have 0.5000″ + 0.0500″ = 0.5500″.

The 1 thousandths (0.0010″) and tenths (0.0001″) readings lines up with the zeroes so we don’t add them to our measurement.

Example #3

closeup of a measurement reading on a micrometer

Here we have 0.7000″ + 0.0140″ + 0.0001″ = 0.7141″.

The 25 thousandths (0.0250″) reading doesn’t have any lines shown beyond the 0.1000″ reading so we don’t add anything to our measurement for the .

If our tenths reading lined up at the 9 as shown below. Our reading would instead be 0.7000″ + 0.0140″ + 0.0009″ = 0.7149″.

closeup of tenths reading on sleeve of micrometer

Tips for preparing to take your measurement

Reading your measurement correctly is important but so isn’t preparing to take your reading.

Pay attention to these factors before taking your measurement to help make sure your readings are accurate.

Make sure everything is clean

Dust and lint might seem small but they can make a huge difference in your measurement.

A human hair measures about 0.003″. Micrometers take measurements to an accuracy of 0.0001″ which is 30 times smaller. This is why everything has to be extremely clean.

Make sure the micrometer spins freely

You want to make sure your micrometer is in good working order. 

Get a feel for it, literally!

If it feels like your micrometer is dragging or rubbing at any point when spinning the thimble, there is a good chance it could affect your measurement.

Pay attention to the angles

You want to take your measurements perpendicular (90 degrees) to the surface you are measuring. 

Measuring at an off angle will skew your measurements and tend to give you a larger reading than the actual size.

a micrometer measuring a part at 90 degrees

Verify your micrometer - checking the zero

Your micrometer should be calibrated but it also a good idea to check it right before using it.

The simplest way is to check the zero. Close the micrometer and check the reading to make sure it isn’t a tenth or two off.

If you have a larger micrometer then use a gauge block to check your zero.

Frequently asked questions about taking readings with micrometers

How to take readings with different types of micrometers

Our examples are shown using a typical outside micrometer. However, there are many different types of micrometers available.

They all get read the same way. 

Depth micrometers are probably the second most common type of micrometer. For most depth micrometer you will find that they don’t have a tenths (0.0001″) reading. Follow all of the same steps to read them but skip adding any tenths to your measurement.

What's the difference between a micrometer and a caliper?

Generally, calipers are less accurate and more versatile. Check out the comparison below to see how they match up.

Micrometers

Calipers

Accuracy

0.0001"

0.001"

Measuring Range

1" increments

0-6"

Types of Measurements

Outside Measurements

Inside, Outside & Depth Measurements

Beginner’s Guide to Micrometers – Get Started

a 0-1" outside micrometer
A standard outside measuring micrometer

What is a micrometer?

A micrometer is a precision measuring tool. 

They are used in manufacturing, machine shops, automotive work and the construction industry. 

“Mic” is shorthand for micrometer.

Mics are very accurate measuring devices. 

Micrometers are used to take measurements with an accuracy of ~.0001″ or better in inches. 

Measurements in millimeters can be made down to .01mm or .001mm.

 

How accurate are micrometers?

Most micrometers have an accuracy of +/- 0.0001″, commonly referred to as a tenth of an inch in machining.

The standard metric versions would come as +/- 0.001mm or +/- 0.002mm.

They can be found with worse or better accuracy but what is usually seen .

When to use a micrometer

Three of the most common precision measuring devices used by a hobbyist or a machine shop are calipers, micrometers and dial test indicators. 

Calipers have the least accuracy of the three and the largest measuring range.

a mitutoyo digital caliper with the display on
Mitutoyo digital caliper

The dial test indicator has the most accuracy and least measuring range. 

Micrometers are in the middle for both accuracy and measuring range. 

While still very accurate, one downfall of the micrometer is that they usually come with a 1″ measuring range (3-4″, 4-5″, etc.).

Because of this they are often sold in sets to cover a larger measuring range. 

A 0-6″ micrometer set will cover the needs of most applications while a 0-12″ set is more than most people, especially hobbyists will need. 0-3″ sets are also common.

Parts of a micrometer

a micrometer with all of its part identified

How to use a micrometer

Before using your micrometer, ensure that the measuring tool and surface to be measured are free of dirt, debris, chips, etc.

Everything should be clean.

The micrometer thimble should spin freely. No hangs up or anything similar.

a micrometer with the thimble identified

Open the thimble to place the part you want to measure between the anvil and spindle.

Spin the thimble until it closes on the part. 

You aren’t trying to clamp down on the part. 

closeup of a micrometer with the ratchet stop identified

Use a gentle, consistent amount of force when spinning the thimble. Using the ratchet on your micrometer can make this easier. Try spinning the thimble until you get three clicks on your ratchet.

This will help you get repeatable measurements. You want to be consistent in your measuring so you know your readings are good.

This is why taking multiple measurements is so important.

When possible, measure the part multiple times to be confident your readings are accurate.

A little practice on a cheap gauge block can help here. Measure that same gauge block a bunch of times and you will become more repeatable in your measurements. You’ll also see how easy it is to change your reading.

a micrometer with the anvil and spindle identified

As the spindle closes on the part being measured, it can be beneficial to slightly rock the micrometer in an effort to seat the micrometer on the part.

Be careful: this technique isn’t right for surfaces that could be scratched or damaged easily.

Once you have closed the part in the micrometer, it is time to take your measurement reading.

How to read a micrometer

The most common variety of micrometers measures to one ten-thousandth of an inch (.0001″).

Measurements are taken by identifying where the lines on the micrometer line up.

You will need to take 4 readings and add them together to get your measurement.

These readings are the 0.1000″, 0.0250″, 0.0010″ and 0.0001″ readings.

Machinists refer to these as the hundred thousandths, 25 thousandths, 1 thousandths and lastly the tenths readings.

Let’s get started.

Along the sleeve of the micrometer will be graduations similar to a ruler. The graduations at every fourth interval are most often numbered 0, 1, 2 and so on. 

These numbers represent .100″ or one hundred thousandths of an inch. 

closeup of a micrometer with the 0.100" graduations identified

Whichever hundred thousandths reading you are past is your reading. In the pic above, the hundred thousandths reading would be 3 which equals 0.3000″.

Once you have taken your hundred thousandths reading then you will need to take the 25 thousandths reading.

Each mark along the sleeve is 0.025″ or 25 thousandths.

closeup of a micrometer with the 0.0250" graduations identified

Next is the reading from the thimble. This is the 0.0010″ reading or one thousandth of an inch reading. 

In the pic above two lines are shown past the three so the 0.0250″ graduation value would be 0.0500″.

In the end we are going to add all of our individual measurements up for our final reading.

closeup of a micrometer with the 0.0010" graduations identified

Note the 0.0010″ reading on the thimble and lastly take the tenths reading from the spindle.

Here we have 15 thousandths.

This makes our measurement so far 0.300″ + 0.0500″ + 0.015″ = 0.3650″.

closeup of a micrometer with the 0.0001" graduations identified

The last reading to take is the tenths reading. If the lines matched up at the 6 tenths mark, then we would have a reading of 0.0006″ which we need to add to our previous readings.

0.3650″ + 0.0006″ = 0.3656″ or three hundred and sixty five thousandths of an inch and six tenths.

Frequently asked questions about micrometers

What kinds of micrometers are available?

There are a ton of different micrometer types available

Often specific industries have their own special type micrometers such as the auto related micrometers on our list of the most common micrometers below:

  • Outside micrometers – measures various lengths, widths, thicknesses and diameters
  • Inside micrometers – measures hole diameters, slot widths
  • Depth micrometer – measures depth of holes, step locations
  • Thread micrometers – measures various thread characteristics
  • Crankshaft micrometer – specific measuring range for measuring crankshafts
  • Disc brake micrometer – measures thickness of brake rotors
  • Blade micrometer – measures slots, keyways and grooves

Are cheaper micrometers as good as expensive ones?

The cheaper off-brand micrometers have gotten much better in recent year, but they haven’t quite caught up to the best manufacturers yet. 

Starrett and Mitutoyo still reign supreme in terms of quality and accuracy.

You can always look for used options on Craigslist or Facebook marketplace to save a buck.

What makes a good micrometer?

A good micrometer needs two things: precision and accuracy. 

Some adjustments can be made with most micrometers to account for small errors in accuracy but nothing can be done to fix a tool that isn’t precise. 

Quality micrometers will turn smoothly without any drag. This is the telltale sign of a good tool. If your micrometer ever feels like it is rubbing internally, we recommend disassembling the micrometer and cleaning per the manufacturers instructions to eliminate any possible contamination that may be causing the issue

How to adjust a micrometer

If your micrometer is in need of adjustment, most micrometers can be adjusted by using the wrench that came with your tool to spin the sleeve of the micrometer. This is usually done in the zero position. This can be especially useful for adjusting for the touch or feel of a mic when it does not include a ratchet or friction stop. 

If you no longer have a wrench or spanner for adjustment, replacement wrenches can be purchased from most manufacturers or on Amazon.

How often should my micrometer be calibrated?

How often you need to calibrate your micrometer will vary depending on a few factors such as what you are measuring with it, how often you are using it, and what type of environment it is in.

Check out our guide to micrometer calibration to get a better understanding of the how, where, when and why of calibrating your mics.

Best Desktop CNC Routers for Home Use [2023]

Let’s face it. There just isn’t enough space at home.

We all do it. We have mountains of tools, gadgets and just plain ole stuff strewn everywhere. Sure, you can clean your garage, workshop, kitchen table or wherever you tend to work on stuff, but it just doesn’t last.

Space is at a premium, which is why we bring you our guide to the best small desktop style CNCs. While these CNCs won’t be carving up 4’ x 8’ sheets of plywood anytime soon, they are more than capable of creating some pretty cool projects on a smaller scale.

The best part is their small footprint means they can be easily stashed away when not in use. But please don’t run one in your closet. Your significant other will not approve of a sawdust and metal chips on their clothes. Don’t ask how I know.

Without further ado, check out our picks for the top desktop CNCs.

Name

Awards

Work Area

Where to Buy

SainSmart Genmitsu 3018-PROVer

Best Overall Desktop CNC

11.8"x7.0"x1.7"

MYSWEETY DIY CNC 3018-PRO

Best Desktop CNC/Laser Engraver Combo

11.8"x7.0"x1.7"

Genmitsu PROVerXL 4030

Best Desktop CNC for Aluminum,
Best Desktop CNC under $1,000

15.7"x11.8"x4.3"

VEVOR CNC 3018 Router Kit

Best Budget Desktop CNC

11.8"x7.0"x1.7"

SainSmart Genmitsu 3018-PROVer

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Pros

Quick assembly - ready in less than 30 minutes
Quiet enough for use in an apartment
Sturdy and well-built, made of aluminum instead of plastic

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Cons

None for the price point

Machine Work Area: 300mm x 180mm x 45mm = 11.8″ x 7.0″ x 1.7″

Physical Machine Dimensions (Machine Footprint): 400mm x 330mm x 240mm = 15.7″ x 13.0″ x 9.4″

Weight: 21.4 pounds

Materials it Will Cut: Plywood, MDF, PCB, acrylic, nylon, carbon fiber and soft metals

Warranty: 1 Year

This SainSmart Genmitsu 3018-PROVer comes mostly pre-assembled, needing only about thirty minutes of assembly once out of the package. A smaller machine that is great for CNC beginners, hobbyists, and small business owners, this machine is very quiet and can operate inside an apartment or similar space without disturbing the neighbors. The smaller size also means it is easy to move around.

Further, the PROVer comes equipped with an emergency stop control that is very visible and easy to access for an immediate shutdown of your machine. You’re inevitably going to mess something up if you work for long enough, so having a big red button to shut off the machine is pretty helpful.

The machine also comes with acrylic safety baffles to help stop dust from spreading while you’re working, making clean up a bit easier and faster. That said, the machine does produce a lot of dust and wood chips, so you may want to make your own cover, or at least be prepared for a thorough cleaning after use.

This 3018 PROVer comes with an offline controller, which allows you to run the machine without having a computer attached.

Though the machine is not particularly wide it can be used to make pass-throughs for narrower, but longer pieces.

 Even though it is a smaller machine, it is built using solid materials. Rather than being made out of wood or plastic, like a lot of cheaper models, the PROVer is made with aluminum. This solid construction also helps reduce noise and vibration while the machine is working.

MYSWEETY DIY CNC 3018-PRO

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Pros

Easy to assemble and operate
Great beginner laser engraving machine as well

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Cons

Not built for cutting harder materials

Machine Work Area: 300mm x 180mm x 45 mm = 11.8″ x 7.0″ x 1.7″

Physical Machine Dimensions: 400mm x 330mm x 240 mm = 15.7″ x 13.0″ x 9.4″

Weight: 15.82 pounds

Materials it Will Cut: Wood, bamboo, paper, ivory, leather, flammable plastic, PCB, acrylic, ceramic/stone, metal surface paint, metal surface plating

  • Note: DO NOT work on metal, iron, glass, 201/304 stainless steel, jewelry, or silver

Warranty: 1 Year

One important thing to understand with this machine is that it is truly a machine made for CNC beginners. If you expect to get this in the mail and begin a large project, you’ll be somewhat disappointed. With that said, it is a good machine for those who want to start learning CNC.

Though the machine does not come assembled, assembly is relatively easy, taking between one and two hours. If you need some extra help, there are plenty of videos on YouTube that can assist you. 

That the machine does not come pre-assembled is not a surprise given its price point, but, again, assembly is easy so don’t let that discourage you.

Initially, it may seem worrying that the frame of the machine is plastic – plastic can easily snap and break if the machine is running a hard job that causes vibrations and shaking. 

However, the plastic framing is phenolic resin, meaning it’s really strong stuff that will not break easily. Such strong plastic also means that there are fewer parts needed for assembly, which is of course a bonus.

It should also be emphasized that the machine defaults to metric movements, so if your code is in inches and you manually move the machine with the offline controller you will run into some issues. So, you either have to be really careful when the machine is operating and be prepared to do conversions on the fly, or you can just make sure that your code is done using the metric system.

Lastly, one shortcoming of this machine is that it is mainly only for engraving on wood. This machine does not do all that well for any cutting action.

If you’re looking to engrave harder materials – such as soft metals – this machine is probably not for you. It does have the added benefit of  working well for laser engraving.

For those who might want a multipurpose machine, the MYSWEETY CNC makes a good choice. The easy to use laser engraving software means most will be able to set it up and start engraving in short order (remember your laser safety glasses). 

CNC work will take a little more effort because the included CNC software isn’t as user friendly, but is still very manageable.

Genmitsu PROVerXL 4030

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Pros

Quick assembly - comes mostly pre-assembled
More power than most small CNCs - can cut metal

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Cons

Takes up more space but allows larger projects

Machine Work Area: 400mm x 300mm x 110mm = 15.7″ x 11.8″ x 4.3″

Physical Machine Dimensions (Machine Footprint): 641mm x 755.5mm x 580mm = 25.2″ x 29.7″ x 22.8″

Weight: 57.2 pounds

Materials it Will Cut: wood, MDF, plastics, foams, vinyl, and aluminum.

Warranty: 1 year

The setup for this machine is really nice. All of the hard bits – such as routing the wiring – are done for you, so what’s left only takes about an hour if you’re working hard. Maybe two hours if you’re going through it at a slow pace.

Once you get started, you’ll notice that this machine definitely has a lot of torque. It’s probably a good idea to start off with the 3018 model if you’re a true beginner, but if you have just a little bit of CNC experience this is a well-built, powerful machine. This model comes with a super rigid structure, so you shouldn’t have any difficulties with it in terms of vibrations and shaking once your work starts.

Because the PROVerXL 4030 is so powerful, it can work on a fairly wide range of materials. You can work on wood, MDF, plastics, foams and even aluminum. Some users have said that they can also cut other soft metals, though if you’re not experienced with soft metals you shouldn’t try to work with them on this machine.

genmitsu proverxl 4030 on table next to 3018 cnc
4030 series CNC compared to 3018 series

In terms of workspace, if you’re doing relatively small projects there should be plenty of room to work. For beginners, or even a small wood/metalworking business you should have enough space to do virtually any CNC project for your customers within reason.

But if you are looking to do something a bit larger, there are some really nice upgrade kits that you can purchase for this machine. For more working space you can buy additional sizes 24”x 24”( 600 x 600mm), and up to 40” x 40” (1000 x 1000mm).

For even more versatility in terms of what you can make with this machine, you can buy the Rotary 4th Axis or High Powered Laser Modules.

VEVOR CNC 3018 Router Kit

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Pros

Price - cost about half of what most others cost
Aluminum construction

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Cons

Assembly instructions are lacking

Machine Work Area: 300mm x 180mm x 45mm = 11.8″ x 7.0″ x 1.7″

Physical Machine Dimensions (Machine Footprint): 400mm x 300mm x 240mm = 15.7″ x 11.8″ x 9.4″

Weight: 17.1 pounds

Materials it Will Cut: All types of plastics, soft aluminum, woods, acrylics, PVC, PCB

Warranty:

The biggest advantage of the VEVOR 3018 is its price. Generally coming in at a little more than $100, you’re going to get a ton of value out of this machine. Of course, a cheaper machine generally means fewer capabilities and cheaper materials, but the VEVOR 3018 is still a good CNC machine for beginners.

Speaking of its construction, the frame is mostly aluminum with some plastic in there as well. For a cheap machine, having an aluminum frame is a big bonus. Metal frames help to reduce vibration, which makes the machines more accurate.

pieces to build vevor 3018 cnc
VEVOR 3018 Pieces for Assembly

One downside for this machine is its assembly. You have to do most of the work yourself, and the assembly guide comes with only pictures, no words. However, there are helpful videos that you can find on YouTube to help out.

Generally, this machine should only be used for engraving, as it is not the strongest machine on the market. You may be able to cut through some balsa wood, but don’t try anything stronger than that. Some users have said that if you push the VEVOR 3018 to its outer limits the machine begins to shake a fair amount, so that is one thing to keep in mind as well. However, if you’re using the machine within its normal range it is pretty quiet.

Generally, people have seemed to have good interactions with the manufacturer if they’ve had any issues, so that’s always a bonus.

Overall, if you’re okay with installing the machine using only pictures and YouTube, then this is a good introductory CNC machine if you do not want to spend a lot of money. But remember, you get what you pay for.

Things to consider when purchasing a desktop CNC

Safety

Just because these are entry level machines does not mean they aren’t powerful and cannot hurt you. Always read instructions. Also, some of these machines can cause a lot of dust and particles to fly into the air while they’re operating, so you should wear safety glasses if you’re getting close.

Size of work area

The size of the work area for any machine directly affects the size of the project you are capable of doing with that machine. All of the machines on this list are entry level, so they are not particularly large. That means they can be easily moved around and do not take up so much space, but that also means the projects you are capable of producing is limited.

It’s also important to remember that the overall size of the machine is not the same as the work area of the machine. For example, the SainSmart PROVer 3018’s overall size is 420 x 340 x 280mm, but its work area is only 260 x 155 x 35mm. That’s a big difference, so make sure you’re reading the machine specs carefully.

Machine construction

This relates to the materials the machine is made out of. When a machine has a really solid frame – typically made out of metal, like the Genmitsu PROVerXL 4030 for example – this is always preferable to a frame made out of wood or plastic.

A solid frame will reduce the shaking of the machine, which makes cuts and engravings more accurate. Reduced shaking can also make the machine quieter when it’s running.

Work materials

Not every CNC machine will cut all materials. This is especially true when it comes to smaller, desktop style CNCs. 

There are two big jumps in capabilities. The first is to soft metals such as aluminum. The second is to harder metals such as steel. 

Some of the machines above will handle aluminum. Not all will do it easily. None of them will be able to cut steel.

Take note of the capabilities of each machine as referenced above and you won’t be disappointed. 

Tooling

Tooling is another word for cutters. Different materials require different cutters, and the type of cutter you’re using can make all the difference on a project.

Most machines will come with a few cutters for you to use right away. These bits are not usually of the highest quality, but if you’re a beginner they will do the job. Learn the pieces, and when you’re ready you can buy separate, more expensive ones.

Customer service

Customer service is really important because these are complex machines if you’re new to CNC. It’s not uncommon to have an issue during assembly, or while you’re using the machine.

In many online reviews, people note the level of customer service that they have experienced, and you should pay attention to this. Don’t be afraid to go on a company’s website and look around to see how easy it is to contact customer service, and also look for things like video tutorials that the company has provided themselves.

CNC software

There is a large variety of software that gets used on these machines. Covering them all would be a giant topic by itself. To get you started here is a quick rundown:

  • CAD or computer aided drafting is software that will allow you to create models to machine or engrave. This is only a drawing and needs further processing before your machine will know what to do with it. The most commonly used CAD software are Fusion 360 and Tinkercad
  • CAM or computer aided manufacturing is the software that takes your model and turns it into code that your CNC will understand. If you are familiar with 3D printers, CAM software is similar to slicing software. The most common CAM software are Fusion 360, CamBam, SheetCam and MeshCam.

A good starting point is to look into Fusion 360. It has an enormous number of tutorials on YouTube. You are likely to find help for any issue you run into and there are many guided courses on use of the software.

CNC routers vs spindles

When it comes to beginner level CNC machines, the terms router and spindle are used almost interchangeably. Some machines, such as the ones from BobsCNC, use an actual router like you would buy at a hardware store. Others use spindles.

Practically, they are both motors that have a collet or chuck to hold a cutting tool such as a router bit or end mill.

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